Burberry rocks London Fashion Week with a defiant nod to rock and roll revival
Burberry concluded London Fashion Week with a vibrant and impactful rock 'n' roll revival show on Monday night, presenting a collection that injected the heritage brand with a fresh sense of energy and polished appeal. Staged within a specially erected tent in Hyde Park's northwest corner, the event drew a star-studded front row, including celebrities like Jason Statham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, rapper Skepta, soccer legend Ian Wright, Elton John and David Furnish, along with musicians Raye and Olivia Dean.
Designer Daniel Lee's artistic vision for the collection was immediately apparent from the show's opening notes and looks. The runway premiered with a bright waxed plaid trench dress, paired with rugged boots and worn by a model sporting Marianne Faithfull-inspired hair, followed by a waxed denim trench coat on a model with a striking Hendrix-esque afro. The soundtrack, a powerful, booming remix of Black Sabbath's "Planet Caravan," served as a poignant tribute, referencing a band beloved by Lee’s Harley Davidson-riding father and whose iconic singer, Ozzy Osbourne, had recently passed.
Indeed, every ensemble showcased could seamlessly grace a rock star. The collection featured "dolly bird" white moulded A-line cocktail dresses adorned with chains, alongside golden or turquoise macramé party sheaths for women. For men, suede lace "Lothario" rocker trenches and impeccably crisp suits with peg legs and snug jackets made a strong statement. Lee ingeniously integrated Burberry's signature plaid motif into waxed parkas, feminine trousers, and military boots. Luxurious posh hippie spy coats crafted from leather, complemented by bags with long fringes, resonated perfectly with the accompanying Black Sabbath montage, which included "You Won't Change Me." The palette itself was equally bold and attention-grabbing, with acid green, salmon pink, and bitter yellow providing a lively and modern kick. Backstage, Lee elaborated on his inspiration: "Summertime in the UK is so synonymous with music culture. This year felt extra special, with the Oasis tour, Beyoncé at Glastonbury, Kendrick was here. Every few days incredible music at festivals, and the Beatles movie is coming up. But it was a wonderful mod ballet at Saddler’s Well that first got me thinking how to celebrate that… Musicians have always had incredible style, and I wanted that exchange between music and fashion." He further emphasized his commitment to creating garments that demand skilled production and evoke emotion, stating, "It’s what separates luxury from great UK high street labels, skill and know-how and making historic techniques relevant for today.”
While the overall aesthetic may not have been entirely groundbreaking, the collection, characterized by its innovative techniques, felt distinctly contemporary and perfectly suited for the present moment. This show comes at a critical juncture for Burberry, the UK's preeminent luxury brand, which recently reported a 15% drop in annual revenue to £2,461 million for the 12 months ending March 29, coupled with a dramatic over 90% plummet in operating profit to a mere £26 million. In this context, the new collection was perceived as both commercially astute and exceptionally timely.
Further underscoring Burberry's strategic repositioning, the house had unveiled its latest retail innovation, the "Scarf Bar," the night before the fashion show. Its inaugural space was situated within Burberry’s expansive Regent Street flagship. CEO Joshua Schulman, who joined Burberry 15 months ago in July, 2024, enthusiastically announced plans to open 30 Scarf Bars within the next three months. The Scarf Bar offers an impressive selection of 200 Burberry scarf styles, ranging from cherished heritage designs to fresh new creations, available in luxurious materials such as cashmere, mohair, wool, silk, or exquisite blends of all four.
Cleverly positioned on the south side of the Regent Street store, the Scarf Bar breathes new life into a previously underutilized retail area that opens onto Vigo Street. This initiative exemplifies the retail acumen of Schulman, a seasoned industry veteran with prior experience at department store giant Neiman Marcus, as well as leadership roles at Michael Kors, Coach, and Jimmy Choo. Reported to be Britain’s highest-paid luxury executive with an annual salary of £2.6 million, the 52-year-old Los Angeles-born Schulman has spearheaded a significant "reset" since his arrival. In May, he announced a plan to lay off 1,700 employees, approximately 20% of Burberry's workforce – tough decisions that were met with positive reception by shareholders, with the group’s share price rising 50% since his appointment. Schulman faces a substantial challenge but also stands to gain significantly; he is eligible for a £3.6 million bonus should he succeed in doubling Burberry’s share price within three years.
Following the show, both Daniel Lee and Joshua Schulman were in high spirits, hosting an exclusive after-party at Chiltern Firehouse, the famed 26-suite London hotel known for its celebrity patronage. The venue itself is undergoing restoration after a major fire caused by a pizza oven in February. The fact that Chiltern Firehouse would permit a soft pop-up for Burberry served as a powerful reminder of the brand's unique and enduring stature in Britain. Far from a "Bonfire of the Vanities," as the evening concluded, Burberry suddenly appeared to be in remarkably good shape.
