Calais-Caudry Lace Seeks EU Protection Against Counterfeits

Dentelle de Calais-Caudry, already recognized as a protected geographical indication (PGI) in France, has initiated the process to secure European geographical indication status. This strategic move aims to fortify the brand's identity and safeguard its heritage against the pervasive threat of low-grade counterfeits that frequently damage its image and sales.

This pursuit aligns perfectly with new developments within the European Union. From December 1, the EU will implement a simplified procedure under Regulation 2024/1143. This pivotal regulation now governs geographical indications and protected designations of origin across all Member States, marking a significant expansion. Crucially, it extends a protection regime, previously limited to agricultural produce, foodstuffs, and spirits, to encompass artisanal, manufactured, and industrial products, thereby offering a new layer of security for traditional crafts like lace.

The lacemakers of Calais and Caudry have already taken the necessary steps. Their application has been submitted to the INPI (National Institute of Industrial Property), which is responsible for forwarding it to the EUIPO (European Union Intellectual Property Office). This critical step is intended to ensure that their geographical indication is recognized and protected throughout the entire European Union.

The journey towards recognition has been substantial. Dentelle de Calais-Caudry officially became a regulated geographical indication in France at the beginning of 2024. This achievement was the culmination of a five-year effort by local industry representatives, driven by the desire to distinguish and protect a unique know-how that spans over two centuries. The production of this exquisite lace relies on the use of imposing and complex Leavers looms, which are integral to its distinctive quality and lend their name to the lace they produce. The label itself has evolved, first launched as "Dentelle de Calais" in 1958, and later updated in 2015 to "Dentelle de Calais-Caudry" to fully include manufacturers from the Caudry area.

By obtaining this European geographical indication, the lacemakers of Calais-Caudry anticipate significant benefits. They will gain robust legal protection across all 27 countries of the Union, effectively combating poor-quality counterfeits. This official guarantee of authenticity and quality is expected to reassure designers, stylists, and enthusiasts of Calais-Caudry lace, fostering greater confidence in the product. Ultimately, this protection is hoped to safeguard this invaluable know-how, preserve these "passion" trades, and significantly accelerate their international development and market reach.

Today, the intricate Dentelle de Calais-Caudry is produced by a select group of esteemed manufacturers. In Calais, these include Codentel, Cosetex, Noyon (Darquer), and Sophie Hallette / Riechers Marescot, with the latter also operating in Caudry. The town of Caudry itself is home to several other prominent producers: Beauvillain Davoine, Darquer & Méry, Dentelles André Laude, Dentelles MC, Jean Bracq, and Solstiss, all contributing to the legacy of this celebrated lace.