Calvin Klein Reimagines Workwear and Underwear with Punk Rock Edge

Calvin Klein’s latest collection unveiled a compelling shift in direction, staged within an art foundation in East Village – a neighborhood famously associated with the birth of punk rock, a stark contrast to the purist minimalism that defined the founder’s heyday. This new setting perfectly mirrored the evolving vision under new designer Veronica Leoni. Her initial inspiration for this collection stemmed from observing New Yorkers in their early morning commute, leading to a collection that masterfully riffed on workwear and workerist details, particularly catering to the ambitious women who populate New York City.

The show commenced with a touch of irony, presenting aprons that ingeniously morphed into curvy cocktail dresses, complete with pockets and a backless design, offered in both classic beige and black. Leoni’s masterful cutting was evident in the superb voluminous coats she presented, ranging from slate-hued boiled chiffon great coats featuring horseshoe necklines to a mannish double-breasted jacket worn open over a satin top and shorts. A standout piece was a hyper-oversized, sand-hued trench coat, gracefully falling off the shoulders, embodying effortless sophistication.

“This past year I really wanted to get close to the brand, close to its DNA and the traditions. To try to own it in my own way,” explained the Rome-born Leoni post-show, articulating her commitment to the house’s heritage while infusing her own distinct perspective. The presentation was underscored by a captivating soundtrack curated by Kid Harpoon, which included poignant snippets of Caetano Veloso singing "Cucurrucucu Paloma." Leoni ventured into new territory with bold, theatrical looks, such as a divine dove grey plissé gown, meticulously dissected like many ensembles by a leather string belt, and a massive, enveloping battleship grey lambskin trench, also held taut with the same string leather detail.

Further magnifying the concept of elevating everyday attire, Leoni featured several striking dressing gowns in bold stripes, with models clutching office and apartment keys attached to elegant leather lariats. “Magnifying normality but bringing it to its next level. A sense of the raw beauty that one sees on the street here,” Leoni remarked, revealing that a shared obsession with the TV series "Dynasty" with her mother had inspired several power looks within the collection. She smiled, adding, “Part of the transatlantic DNA we are trying to build up here,” hinting at the brand’s global yet distinctly New York-rooted identity.

The models made their entrance down an industrial stairway before gracefully touring the interior of the Brant Foundation, a converted Con Edison substation that once served as the studio for the legendary land artist Walter De Maria. The show was also peppered with clever insider puns, from the soundtrack that subtly lifted a line about Calvin Klein from the movie "Back to the Future," to playful interpretations of possibly Calvin’s most famous signifier: underwear.

This reinterpretation of underwear was showcased through a playful combination of floral Victorian bloomers with matching vests, and saucy sports-bras peeking above crepe tops with sweetheart necklines or fine wool deep gorge jackets. The collection further pushed boundaries with female models sporting logo long johns and sporty visors featuring underwear trim. A particularly brilliant piece was a tweed column dress crafted from a fabric lattice of elasticated yarn and underwear trim, demonstrating innovative material use. Many of the splendidly fresh new cast, meticulously selected by Ashley Brokaw, sported workerist scarves on their heads, evoking the imagery of post-war Italian field workers.

For men, the collection offered equally eye-catching designs, including a slate grey denim suit paired with a hunting jacket, and a fantastic crushed linen and hyper-gathered muddy grey coat worn over long johns. Leoni injected more humor and lightness with a riff on cheerleaders, attaching playful pompons by string to the hem of several lingerie dresses, adding an unexpected, whimsical touch.

All told, this second collection from Veronica Leoni for Calvin Klein proved to be a very impressive display, met with sustained applause from an appreciative audience. Esteemed guests included Lily Collins, Iris Law, Emily Ratajkowski, Naomi Watts, and singer Rosalia, all witnessing the exciting new chapter for the iconic house.