Collina Strada Steals the Show with Eco-Chic Spectacle as Simkhai Stumbles and Love Shack Fancy Sizzles at NYFW

Thursday afternoon at New York Fashion Week presented a compelling triptych of fashion statements from three dynamic, New York-based brands: Jonathan Simkhai, Love Shack Fancy, and Collina Strada. While each label offered a distinct vision, it was Collina Strada that emerged as the undeniable, surprise star attraction of the day, delivering a show that captivated and resonated deeply with attendees.

Indeed, Thursday’s most captivating spectacle belonged to Collina Strada, orchestrated with remarkable enthusiasm on the 6 East River Piers. This dramatic setting offered an unparalleled backdrop, as a vibrant flotilla of boats and ships – including jet skis, iconic Staten Island ferries, classic schooners, tugs, and lively party boats – sped across the East River. Hillary Taymour, the ingenious founder of Collina Strada, reinforced her reputation as New York's reigning queen of fashionable recycling and an eco-conscious innovator. This season, her collection was ingeniously presented in duets, with each second look designed as an almost negative image of its partner, creating a compelling visual dialogue.

Taymour's design ethos is marked by audacious creativity, evident in her signature barrel-leg wide denim jeans, provocatively paired with hyper-ruffled satin blouses. Her shorts and culottes demonstrated a masterful layering technique, blending authentic street style with a sophisticated couture twist. Gowns featured panels of diverse fabrics, often culminating in playfully askew mini trains. The collection’s footwear included some exciting new Pro-Ked collaboration high-tops in vibrant pink fabrics, though many models also sported Collina Strada’s distinctive sandals, adorned with artfully chopped-up chiffon shards. The collection's mashed-up aesthetic extended to the brilliant soundtrack, a cacophony of financial TV news segments, Wall Street bulletins, punchy rock anthems, and even a track titled "Friendly Fascism" by the alternative industrial band Consolidation, creating an immersive sensory experience. The show reached a breathtaking crescendo at its finale, as the sun dipped below the horizon, silhouetting the distant Statue of Liberty – a powerful image that perfectly encapsulated the show's profound feeling of liberation.

In contrast, Jonathan Simkhai, one of New York’s most commercially successful and influential young designers, presented his latest collection on Delancey Street to a packed house of buyers from esteemed retailers like Bergdorf Goodman, Selfridges, Neiman Marcus, and Nordstrom. This season, Simkhai drew inspiration from Californian street culture, specifically the cult 2005 movie "Lords of Dogtown," which chronicled the transformation of surfers into skateboarders. For men, he ingeniously combined dhotis and sarongs with luxurious leather blousons, and crafted raw-hide suits into skateboard pants and aviator jackets. His women’s collection featured elegant white sheaths adorned with bands of lace, toweling, and fringed bouclé, though some elements, such as Aran sweater corsets and Princess Leia tunics, felt somewhat disconnected and overly ambitious. The collection concluded with delicate, sequined mini cocktails, subtly referencing a shimmering sea. Despite the promising concepts, the overall execution felt somewhat fumbled, a surprising step back for the 2015 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award winner, who had previously secured $300,000 and a year of invaluable industry mentorship.

Rounding out the afternoon was Love Shack Fancy, a brand synonymous with clothing that evokes an immediate, joyful squeal from its young clientele. This infectious enthusiasm was palpable at the label’s latest presentation, where young best friends repeatedly discovered they were both wearing Love Shack Fancy. Founder and designer Rebecca Hessel Cohen eschews traditional runway shows in favor of vibrant "dance installations," where lithe models perform lively routines on platforms to classic rock tunes. The brand's aesthetic primarily revolves around two signature looks: "chiffon boudoir" and "sexy sequins." The chiffon boudoir pieces often feature layers of delicate lace, utilizing underwear fabrics for skimpy tanks, corsets, alluring pants, or frilly smocks. The "sexy sequins" – a popular choice among at least a third of the guests – translated beautifully into tube tops and miniskirts, particularly on the fit young women with glowing summer tans who comprised much of the Love Shack Fancy crowd. This season, Rebecca introduced a captivating Wild West twist, showcasing posh hippie saloon gal looks, complemented by stunning new cowboy boots featuring spike or stiletto heels. The models themselves joined in the brand's signature squealing as they bopped around the mini stages set on the rooftop of Nine Orchard, the former bank turned boutique hotel that serves as the pulsing nerve center of Dimes Square, currently Manhattan’s hippest neighborhood.