EU Urged to Mandate 10% Recycled Fibers in Textiles for Circular Economy

Recycling Europe Textiles (RET), the leading European association for the textile reuse and recycling industry, is calling on the EU Commission to implement ecodesign regulations that mandate a minimum of 10% recycled fibre content in all textile products beginning in 2028. This move, according to RET, is a crucial step towards establishing a genuinely circular model for the European textile industry.

In a position statement released on January 7th, RET emphasized that the upcoming EU ecodesign regulation for textiles presents a pivotal opportunity to accelerate the shift towards circularity. The organization argues that mandatory recycled-content requirements are essential for bolstering the recycling sector and addressing the increasing strain on European textile waste collection and processing infrastructure. Currently, the sector is facing challenges including a surplus of low-quality waste, weak demand for recycled fibres, and limited funding.

RET warns that the situation is likely to deteriorate further. The mandatory separate collection of used textiles, set to begin in January 2025, coupled with the continued growth of ultra-fast fashion and its associated consumption patterns, threatens to overwhelm existing systems. Without strong market signals to incentivize reuse and recycling, RET fears that increasing volumes of used textiles will end up being incinerated or landfilled instead of being repurposed into new materials.

To counteract this trend, RET advocates for a precise and stringent definition of ‘recycled content’. This definition should prioritize post-consumer textile waste originating within Europe, explicitly exclude materials from open-loop recycling processes like PET bottles, and discourage the creation of industrial textile waste. The goal is to foster true fibre-to-fibre circularity and concentrate recycling efforts on the primary textile waste stream within the European market.

RET proposes a phased implementation of mandatory recycled-content targets. Initially, these targets should be applied at the company portfolio level, transitioning to product-specific targets by 2030. The proposed schedule includes a minimum of 10% recycled fibres by 2028, increasing to 15% by 2030, and reaching 30% by 2035, with a growing proportion sourced from European post-consumer waste. RET believes these targets will provide clear, predictable market signals, stimulating demand for recycled fibres and attracting investment in advanced sorting and recycling technologies.

A key component of RET’s position is the need for robust and reliable verification systems. The association supports a combined approach utilizing chain-of-custody systems, mass-balance methodologies, and enhanced traceability, particularly during the collection and sorting phases. In this regard, the EU’s Digital Product Passport is seen as a vital tool for improving transparency, requiring detailed information on the quantity, type, and origin of recycled content used in textile products.

“Mandatory recycled-content targets are among the most effective policy instruments for transforming the European textile industry,” RET concluded. “By promoting genuine fibre-to-fibre circularity, the European Union can reduce reliance on virgin resources, encourage innovation and expand recycling capacity, and support a resilient and competitive European textile recycling sector.”