European textile industry demands urgent crackdown on ultra-fast fashion giants

European textile and clothing companies are intensifying their calls for immediate action against the practices of ultra-fast fashion retailers and major Asian e-commerce platforms like Shein, Temu, and AliExpress. In a joint letter addressed to the European Commission, industry players expressed their frustration, stating they "can no longer wait years for measures to be taken" to combat what they describe as a market flooded with cut-price, non-compliant products, leading to unfair competition, environmental pollution, and exploitative labour practices.

The urgency of their demand stems from the "unprecedented rise in textile waste" and the "untenable pressure on European businesses." The letter, seen by AFP, highlighted the staggering scale of imports, noting that "the largest third-country e-commerce platforms" imported 4.5 billion parcels in 2024. This collective voice represents a significant moment, with Euratex president Mario Jorge Machado emphasizing that the EU has "both the means and the duty to act now," while UFIMH co-president Pierre-François Le Louët noted it's the first time European federations have agreed on such a joint declaration.

A key demand from these federations is the immediate strengthening of customs barriers. They advocate for the swift implementation of the reform of the EU Customs Code, specifically the removal of the customs duty exemption for goods valued under €150. This exemption currently benefits the targeted e-commerce giants, which predominantly ship small parcels from China, allowing them to bypass duties faced by European businesses.

Beyond customs, the signatories are pushing for accelerated ongoing investigations into these platforms, urging for "the most severe sanctions" provided under European regulations where necessary. Their recommendations also include introducing "fees on small parcels" and initiating a direct "dialogue with the Chinese authorities." Furthermore, they insist that these companies be "required" to "appoint representatives (...) so that they can be held legally accountable" within the European legal framework.

These comprehensive demands receive robust support from Euratex, the European Apparel and Textile Confederation, and numerous national federations across Europe, including those in France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Greece, Switzerland, Belgium, and Portugal. The joint letter, signed on Tuesday at the Première Vision trade show in Paris, is poised to be formally forwarded to the European Commission, signifying a unified and determined industry front.

For several months, Asian e-commerce platforms have faced growing scrutiny and a backlash from environmental and human rights associations, European companies, and regulatory authorities, leading to investigations, substantial fines, and proposed legislation aimed at curbing their rapid growth. However, in the view of the signatories, these existing efforts, while necessary, remain insufficient to address the scale of the challenge. The letter represents a "start of concrete action without going through the maze of European decision-making," according to UIT president Olivier Ducatillion, aiming to directly prompt effective policy changes.

Adding to this momentum, the French government also penned a letter to the European Commission at the end of August, advocating for the EU to equip itself with "new delisting powers" for e-commerce platforms found to be in breach of EU law, specifically naming Shein as a target. This further underscores the cross-governmental and industry consensus on the urgent need for robust regulatory intervention.