Frida Giannini Returns with Star-Studded Liberty Collaboration

A significant new collection has just been unveiled by the esteemed London department store Liberty, marking the highly anticipated return of former Gucci creative chief, Frida Giannini, to the fashion spotlight. This collaboration, titled "Hypernova 150 by Frida Giannini," is a dedicated tribute to Liberty’s 150th Anniversary and is hailed by the store as a "milestone collaboration," featuring an exclusive and extensive capsule of accessories and fashion. The collection is described as intricately weaving "threads of Liberty’s history through Frida’s creative lens into a tapestry of legacy, modernity and innovation."

Frida Giannini holds the distinction of being the longest-serving creative head at Gucci since its revival in the 1990s, having led the brand for twelve impactful years. However, following her voluntary departure from the Kering-owned luxury house in 2014, she has maintained a notably low profile within the fashion industry. "Hypernova 150" therefore represents her first comprehensive offering under her own name since her hiatus.

While Giannini might not initially appear to be an obvious choice for a Liberty collaboration, the store has demonstrated a recent penchant for unconventional partnerships, as seen with its Adidas Samba trainer prints or the in-store launch of the Topshop comeback collection. A closer examination, however, reveals the logical synergy: Giannini is renowned for her profound love of print, notably reviving the now-iconic Gucci Flora during her tenure. Her work also frequently draws influence from the 1960s—a decade synonymous with London's cultural zenith—and incorporates the sophisticated tailoring for which the city is world-renowned.

Giannini herself expressed a deep reverence for the institution, stating, “For me, Liberty is the only place emblematic of the quintessence of England: sat between Carnaby Street – the emblem of the social revolution, the swinging Sixties, punks and studs, and Savile Row – a place of tradition, craftsmanship and tailoring.” She also acknowledged the deliberate decision behind Sir Arthur Lasenby Liberty’s choice of location 150 years ago, creating a unique Tudor-style building that continues to capture attention with its distinctiveness. The designer further believes that “Liberty attracts and holds an international appeal. Walking through [the building] is a unique experience, surrounded by all cultures: it is a unique melting pot in the world.”

Her personal connection to London and Liberty runs deep; she once resided in the city while working at Gucci under Tom Ford’s leadership and frequently returns. For Giannini, visiting Liberty was always an "obligatory destination," a place she could never miss. She found the collaboration to be perfectly timed for her return to her "job and passion," describing the confluence as "a sort alchemy."

In conceptualizing "Hypernova 150," Giannini embarked on extensive research into Liberty's storytelling and archives. Her aim was to forge a strong sense of contrast by uniting the rich heritage of Liberty with elements of Carnaby Street and music—her great passions—while simultaneously projecting Liberty into its next 150 years.

The collection itself is diverse and expansive, featuring a luxurious velvet peacoat, a wool-cashmere peacoat, and a longline double-breasted coat, both distinguished by specially printed Hypernova linings. It also includes a short and a long tartan kilt, elegantly slim-cut dresses, versatile belts, sophisticated capes, an array of scarves, comfortable pyjamas, and a wide selection of bags. Key features woven throughout the collection are a reimagined Union Jack, rendered in Liberty’s signature purple, and a bespoke double-L metal logo. Prices for the collection range from £125 to £1,995.

Elaborating on the collection's name and symbolism, Giannini explained, “A hypernova is a rare event in which a strong stellar explosion creates many new stars.” She envisioned starting with a powerful, graphically recognizable statement, much like Liberty and the Union Jack. Inspired by the hypernova concept, she introduced Liberty’s symbolic purple hues and bronze metals, drawing inspiration from the British navy, whose ships were historically used to construct Liberty’s flagship store. This naval influence is evident in the collection’s navy peacoats crafted from felted cashmere and velvet with distinct proportions, as well as the long admiral's coats, designed to project Liberty into the future while revering its origins.

Further developing this new colour palette, Giannini delved into the Liberty archives, redesigning a Japanese-inspired heron print, which has been artfully reproduced on iridescent silk velvets. The collection is completed by a new monogram logo, uniting the “LL” of Liberty London. This design, according to Giannini, skillfully conveys the contrast between the more organic traditions of the past and a more modernist, rich, and luxurious future.

Giannini also shared her enduring affection for Liberty, praising the iconic artists who designed for the store, such as William Morris and Sonja Delauney, as well as the notable figures who wore Liberty fabrics, from Oscar Wilde to David Bowie. She also highlighted the pioneering spirit of founder Sir Arthur Lasenby, who bravely introduced fabrics from the Mediterranean, Middle East, and Asia to the London market.