Global Visions: Docherty's Nature-Inspired Artistry Meets Khanna's Bold Indian Couture at LFW Finale
The final day of London Fashion Week was marked by inspiring and exotic additions, courtesy of two designers with steadily rising careers, both operating far from London's traditional fashion hub: Rory William Docherty and Anamika Khanna from India. Their respective presentations offered distinct perspectives, significantly enriching the week's closing moments.
One of London’s most anticipated and beautiful debuts was by Rory William Docherty, a designer of Scottish origin who has previously showcased his work in Australia and New Zealand. Over the past two decades, Docherty has divided his time between the UK and Australasia, but it was a transformative return to nature in New Zealand that provided the profound artistic impetus for his latest slow fashion collection.
The collection's most striking elements were Docherty’s bold, blotchy abstract prints, which adorned elegant dresses, elongated jackets, billowing jumpsuits, and playful skirts. These seemingly abstract patterns, he revealed, were directly "culled from nature," specifically inspired by a camping trip and the serene beauty of rock pools – a necessary "reset" after a demanding season. This deep connection to nature extended to his accessories, incorporating sea anemones growing on rocks as jewelry, hand-blown black glass beads on super sandals and bag straps, and even these elements dramatically reinterpreted into giant bags or exploded into a patent leather sculptural skirt. His signature "explosion" of the collar, splaying out like a "puritan on acid" or evolving into a hood, added a further layer of dramatic artistry. The bold shapes, artful volume, and languid mood of the garments evoked the aesthetic of renowned Japanese designers, yet this collection remained a powerful, personal statement by Docherty, solidifying his brand's upward trajectory. The 46-year-old designer explained his strategy: "Knowing that no one here would have heard of me before I thought it was really important to focus on my signature looks, and DNA," a clear success evidenced by the collection's impact.
Across town, mid-afternoon on Monday, the London Fashion Week spotlight shifted to Hamley’s for the runway debut of the ready-to-wear collection AK/OK Anamika Khanna. This new line had previously launched in Saks last year, marking Khanna’s significant step into the Western market.
Anamika Khanna, a celebrated figure in Indian couture for two decades, unveiled her fresh RTW division, AK/OK Anamika Khanna, to a Western audience for the first time. The ambitious project is financially supported by the giant Indian conglomerate Reliance, which notably acquired Hamleys in February for approximately £70 million. Leveraging this synergy, Reliance transformed the upper floors of Hamley’s, where models gracefully prowled around the toy store’s racetrack floor, navigating an whimsical landscape of Star Wars figurines, Marvin’s Magic lights, and Gravity Defying mini drones. Each guest found an intriguing, hand-embroidered cloth emblem on their seat, a testament to 20 hours of intricate work, perfectly setting the stage for a collection steeped in ravishing adornment.
The collection opened with a series of ivory silk jackets, chiffon shirts, and silk dhotis, delicately finished with floral prints, alongside saucy corsets embellished with fabric flowers. Most looks were anchored by strikingly cool lace boxing boots. Khanna showcased an impressive range, presenting sharp suits and redingotes in silvery silks, accented with metallic embroidery or chain mail patches, and even adding metallic finishes to jeans for a tougher edge. While Indian designers can sometimes be perceived as demure in Western eyes, Anamika Khanna boldly defied this stereotype, with a clear love for transparency evident throughout her designs. Emphasizing a distinct boudoir mood, her collection featured bloomers, sheer chiffon blouses, cami-knickers, and silver sequin bras, suggesting her designs are for women who embrace fun and freedom. The presence of Bollywood megastar Sonam Kapoor in the front row, with her 34.3 million followers, underscored the collection’s immediate appeal, marking it as a definite hit from its first to its last look.
