Historic Milanese Perfumery Satinine Returns Home with New Flagship Store Near Duomo
Founded in Milan in 1883, Satinine is a distinguished perfumery laboratory renowned for its blend of art and science in creating fragrances deeply rooted in Italy’s rich botanical heritage. The Milanese brand recently announced its return to its home city with the opening of a new 70-square-metre boutique at Via Giuseppe Mengoni 4, situated near the iconic Piazza Duomo.
The company's origins trace back to Lorenzo Usellini, a native of Arona on Lake Maggiore, who first moved to Milan to manage the import and distribution of toiletries. Following the First World War, Usellini began composing his own fragrances, leading to the establishment of the "Satinine Officina Odoraria." This family enterprise flourished with the creative contributions of Usellini's three sons, one of whom went on to become a respected painter. Usellini himself described his creations as "the result of a sophisticated balance between nature and science, memory and innovation, art and formula."
During the 1930s, Satinine achieved international acclaim for its perfumes, notably "Orchidea Nera" for women and "Caccia alla Volpe" for men. These fragrances, presented in precious flacons produced by Vetrerie Bormioli, became icons within the Italian olfactory landscape. The brand name itself combines the tactile elegance and sensuality of "Satin"—the fabric—with the suffix "-ine," which evokes the company's precision and chemical and botanical focus. Today, the relaunched brand draws inspiration from a historical archive of 150 items, including vintage perfume bottles and materials displayed in a showcase at the new store.
The new era of Satinine began with its reacquisition in 2024 by Profumieri Milano S.r.l., led by entrepreneur Galletti and Ridgely Cinquegrana, the former president of Loewe. Galletti, who previously collaborated with Cinquegrana on developing Fornasetti Profumi, explained their shared vision: "We stayed in touch, and he was keen to realise a project that would be meaningful in the perfumery world. We didn’t want to launch a brand with no history. As someone who knows the history of perfume, I decided to invest in the relaunch of Satinine.”
This relaunch comes after a period of decline for historic Italian perfumeries. As Galletti noted, "Historic perfumery was wiped out in the 1950s by the advent of fragrances from designer brands." Satinine initially shifted its focus to licensing, producing fragrances for brands like Ferrari, Bottega Veneta, and Borsalino. The entrepreneur stated that Milan lost "an immensely important cultural heritage" during this period, as single-brand houses with in-house production were swept away by public demand for designer scents. After going bankrupt in 2005 and being acquired by a Rome-based company, Satinine essentially disappeared from the market before its recent re-emergence.
Satinine’s new Milan shop, named Officina, was designed by Mara Bragagnolo to re-interpret the city’s architectural and perfumery heritage through a contemporary perspective. Drawing inspiration from the entrance halls of historic buildings, which serve as spaces of welcome and intimacy, the store is organized into distinct areas: the porter’s lodge, the sensory room, and the curatorial area. This design aims to transform the discovery of fragrances into a shared ritual.
The interiors of the boutique blend modernist rigour with textural warmth, utilizing local materials such as Lombard terracotta, glazed ceramic, and cathedral glass. These elements create a dialogue with oak panelling, Cardinal marble, and satin-finished steel details. Every component within the space is bespoke, crafted by local artisans, while carefully curated soft lighting by Martina Frattura envelops the space with a signature "satin" glow.
The official opening of the new shop coincided with the debut of a collection of 21 new Satinine fragrances. These scents were developed in the company’s in-house laboratory using natural ingredients sourced from Italian cultivars. The brand's stated aim is to champion independent auteur perfumery, differentiating itself from the conventions typically associated with the French school. The new perfume bottle, designed by Franz Degano, further reinforces this commitment by drawing inspiration from the elegance of the 1930s. The company has also expanded its offerings to include home fragrances and maintains an in-house laboratory for bespoke products for other brands and hotel chains. Retail prices for Satinine perfumes range between €120 and €180.
Satinine’s future retail ambitions include international expansion. While the brand would "love to open in London," according to Galletti, other locations such as Japan or South Korea are also being considered for future boutiques.
