Hyères Festival Crowns Young Innovators Amidst Budget Challenges and Showcases Groundbreaking Design
The 40th International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories in Hyères recently concluded, celebrating innovation and emerging talent at an awards ceremony held at Villa Noailles. Despite facing significant budgetary constraints, the event was deemed a resounding success, largely due to the unwavering support from public institutions and private partners. The festival, streamlined into a dynamic three-day format, successfully attracted substantial crowds and a notable presence of industry professionals, reaffirming its vital role in the creative landscape. Pascale Mussard, president of the Villa Noailles art centre which oversees the festival, expressed her delight, stating, "It was a great opportunity to put young creativity back at centre stage. All the human resources directors from the major fashion houses were there."
The fashion competition this year was particularly competitive, showcasing an exceptionally high standard of finely executed collections. Many of these designs were not only ready for market but also underpinned by strong, coherent narratives. Young designers were deeply engaged with contemporary themes, notably war, and insightful explorations of masculinity and femininity. While the collections were highly accomplished, some observers noted a perceived lack of audacious originality, with several proposals featuring familiar silhouettes, frills, and gathers that echoed past trends. However, menswear silhouettes largely stood out for their remarkable creativity and fresh perspectives.
Embodying this innovative spirit, Lucas Emilio Brunner, a 26-year-old Swiss designer of Chilean origin, was awarded the prestigious Fashion Jury Grand Prix. A 2022 graduate of the École Nationale Supérieure des Arts Visuels de La Cambre in Brussels, Brunner presented a unique universe. His collection was inspired by "the dissection of balloons and a study of instrument stands," resulting in a distinctive menswear wardrobe that subtly referenced 1960s Ivy League style. Brunner ingeniously deconstructed the party balloon, adapting its components and principles from his extensive research into his garments, yielding an inventive, playful collection brimming with fresh ideas.
Brunner’s presentation opened with a visually striking yet deliberately fragile "image" look: a tartan jacket meticulously crafted from a multitude of small inflated balloons. He then cleverly reinterpreted the balloon form, padding numerous mini-tubes in white-and-blue shirt-striped poplin with wadding. The ubiquitous balloon knot was ingeniously repurposed, serving as a fastener for a blue latex trench coat, securing trousers at the side, or tying a draped leather top over one shoulder. This same knot even replaced the ribbon on an oval, balloon-shaped beret. His collection culminated with a T-shirt adorned with shaggy fringing, crafted from a series of deflated balloons. With his pop-inflected pieces, innovative approach, and this esteemed award, the young designer—who has previously collaborated with Germanier, Palomo Spain, and Maison Margiela and is based in Geneva—is undeniably poised for a successful career.
In the Fashion category, French designer Adrien Michel, aged 28, was honored with the "le19M Métiers d’art" prize, an award introduced by Chanel in 2019. Hailing from the Vosges mountains and also a graduate of La Cambre, Michel's collection seamlessly blended "technical mountain sportswear and a contemporary men’s wardrobe." He introduced novel constructions and proportions, featuring hybrid outerwear that merged trench coats with down jackets, alongside innovative two-in-one lumberjack shirts.
The "L’Atelier des Matières" prize, another significant award promoted by Chanel, a major partner of the festival, was bestowed upon Layla Al Tawaya. The 24-year-old designer, of Polish and Palestinian descent and based in Paris, recently graduated from Parsons Paris. She captivated the jury with her exceptional craftsmanship, particularly her technique of working leather like lace. Her unisex menswear collection masterfully fused two contrasting universes: the inherent masculinity of the perfecto with the delicate femininity of the tutu, featuring a cascade of tulle ruffles, intricate pleats, gathers, large jabots, and distinctive smocked or zipped cuffs, culminating in a baroque and rococo aesthetic.
Lebanese designer Youssef Zogheib, 23, also a Parsons Paris alumnus, garnered the Hyères Public Prize. His unisex collection drew inspiration from the intriguing history of "soldiers who cross-dressed during the Second World War." His impeccably cut pieces, such as long, flared military coats that unfolded into gracefully flowing and floating volumes, resonated strongly with both the public and industry professionals.
Among the festival’s new initiatives was the introduction of the Supima Prize. The American association, dedicated to promoting high-end U.S.-grown cotton and a long-standing supporter of the Hyères Festival for eight years, launched its own award this year. The prize offers the winner a substantial fabric allocation to produce their collection. Swiss designer Noah Almonte, 29, was the inaugural recipient, recognized for his graphic, clean-lined proposals. His collection ranged from a large gingham-check dress reminiscent of Balenciaga to elegant wide-brimmed hats and chic bolero jackets, creating sophisticated ladylike looks.
Further enhancing this recognition, Supima will facilitate an extraordinary opportunity for its winner and the nine other fashion finalists. On November 5, they, along with Hugo Lucchino, the new general manager of Villa Noailles, will be flown to New York to attend the Supima Design Lab competition. This initiative will provide invaluable international exposure for the Hyères event and its burgeoning creative talents.
In the accessories category, the jury’s Grand Prix was awarded to Amaury Darras, a 28-year-old Frenchman, for his exceptional woodworking skill. Originally from Châteauneuf-sur-Loire in the Loiret region, Darras honed his craft at the prestigious École Boulle in Paris. After eight years as a cabinetmaker in Orléans, he relocated to Marseille, where in 2023, he co-founded Atelier Vandael with eleven other visual artists. Darras explained his unique approach to FashionNetwork.com, stating, "I’ve been working on the human body for three years, using wood and wearable sculptures. I’ve invented my own three-dimensional marquetry technique." His remarkable creations include a corset, clogs, and a bag, all intricately crafted from various woods such as olive, Rio rosewood, and walnut burl.
Demonstrating remarkable versatility, the highly talented Luisa Olivera, 27, from San Pedro Sula in Honduras, was awarded the Hermès Accessories Prize. Having moved to France in 2017 to study at the IFM and the École des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, she captivated the public with her incredibly light, modular jewelry. These pieces took the form of lustrous fabric flowers that could elegantly open and close.
The Public Prize for accessories went to French designer Alyssa Cartaut, 24, a graduate of the École Duperré and holding a master’s degree from La Cambre. Her highly inventive shoe collection was conceptualized around the theme of cushions, featuring super-soft lambskin mules equipped with mini bolsters and other cushion-like elements, which she affectionately described as "foot rooms." These pieces exuded an irresistible allure, making one instantly desire to wear them.
In the photography section, the esteemed 7L Grand Prize was presented to French photographer Noémie Ninot, with a special mention extended to her compatriot Julie Joubert. The American Vintage prize in photography was awarded to Spanish-Moroccan Gabriel Mrabi, recognizing his distinctive vision.
