Industry Coalition Urges EU to Align Due Diligence with Global Standards
As the European Union navigates the complex landscape of corporate accountability, particularly in its efforts to simplify due diligence requirements, a powerful coalition of nine organizations has issued a joint appeal. Representing some 8,000 affiliated companies, with a significant presence in the clothing sector, these entities are urging EU lawmakers to ensure that the forthcoming regulation harmonizes with established international standards rather than creating new, potentially divergent frameworks.
The signatories to this crucial appeal include prominent names such as Fair Wear, the Green Button Alliance, Fair Labor, Cascade, Amfori, the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI), Ethical Trade Norway, ETI Sweden, and the Social & Labor Convergence Program. Their collective voice emphasizes the imperative for the future European due diligence law to align seamlessly with the guiding principles already established by the OECD (Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development) for large companies. Furthermore, they underscore the vital relevance of international human rights principles and the foundational standards set by the ILO (International Labour Organization), advocating for a globally coherent approach to corporate responsibility.
Central to their argument is the assertion that a risk-based approach to due diligence is not only ethically sound but also makes strong business sense. As stated in their appeal, this methodology “allows actions to be prioritized where they matter most,” enabling companies to effectively manage risks, cultivate more resilient supply chains, and contribute significantly to the EU’s overarching climate and social objectives. This strategic focus ensures resources are directed towards areas of greatest impact, fostering efficiency and effectiveness in compliance efforts.
To achieve these objectives, the signatory organizations have put forward three concrete proposals. Firstly, they advocate for the integration of a risk-based approach, which would empower companies to focus their efforts on the most vulnerable stages of production, rather than applying a rigid, standardized approach across the board. Secondly, they call for the strengthening of collaboration across supply chains, specifically by removing existing “glass ceilings” that hinder effective cooperation. Lastly, and crucially, the organizations are appealing for a legally secure and stable legislative text, ensuring that the duty of vigilance remains consistent and resilient against political uncertainties over time.
This joint appeal comes at a pivotal moment, following a period of prolonged negotiation and a notable "U-turn" in the European project on corporate duty of vigilance within EU institutions in 2024. This unexpected reversal has caused considerable dismay among mobilized NGOs, particularly those operating within the textile and apparel sector. While France had long distinguished itself as a pioneer with its national duty of vigilance law, the situation took a significant turn in May when President Emmanuel Macron controversially called for the entire European “due diligence” project to be scrapped, adding further complexity to the EU’s legislative path.
