Italian Eyewear Eyes Global Comeback Despite Tariffs Fueled by Market Expansion and Mido Innovation

The Italian eyewear industry is actively preparing for the upcoming Mido exhibition, even as it grapples with the lingering effects of U.S. tariffs. Industry leaders now anticipate a full recovery by 2026, largely driven by expansion into new international markets. Lorraine Berton, president of ANFAO, the sector's trade association, shared insights into these developments, including ANFAO's plans to re-establish an exhibition presence in New York and details on the forthcoming DaTe event in Naples.

Mido 2026, scheduled from January 31 to February 2, will feature a significant evolution from previous editions. This adjusted timing, though challenging to implement, has been met with strong exhibitor commitment, boasting 1,200 companies, including 140 new participants from 160 countries. Attendees can expect a completely redesigned central piazza, 20 distinct events within The Vision Stage area, and the inclusion of "The Lens of Time" exhibition, originally launched in Venice, presented as a striking installation within the fair.

Economically, the industry has faced a demanding year, though stabilization is now evident. The U.S. market has been particularly tough, experiencing a 20% decline in the first half of the year, although this improved to a 15% reduction in the most recent quarter. While the initial shock of tariffs has been absorbed, the sector anticipates closing the year in negative territory, with an upturn projected for the following year. Globally, exports are down 3% over the first nine months, yet Europe demonstrates remarkable resilience, South America shows growth, and other emerging markets are opening up.

The Italian eyewear sector is undergoing a profound phase of transformation, with the historic Belluno district remaining its crucial epicentre. ANFAO is actively reclaiming the reins of internationalization, providing substantial support to companies expanding beyond Italy, particularly small businesses. This strategic focus on smaller enterprises is seen as vital, as their unique identity is believed to be integral to the overall strength and character of the larger industry players.

Looking ahead, Brazil has been identified as a priority market, with a dedicated mission planned for the next year. This focus is reinforced by the anticipated EU-Mercosur agreement, which promises to eliminate current tariffs ranging from 14% to 18%, thereby easing access into a market where Italian eyewear currently doubles in price from factory to consumer. Regarding the U.S. market, ANFAO hopes to return to Vision Expo East annually from 2028, currently maintaining a presence in Orlando. This ambitious project requires significant investment, underscoring the need for enhanced communication to leverage the recognition of "Made in Italy" eyewear quality.

The next edition of DaTe, following its successful stop in Riccione, will be held in Naples from September 12–14 at the Teatro Salone Margherita within the Galleria Umberto I. This travelling format will continue its journey across Italy, benefiting from exceptional collaboration with ICE (Italian Trade Agency). President Zoppas of ICE has been instrumental in providing opportunities for investment in the sector, demonstrating strong belief in ANFAO's team and their responsible use of resources.

The strength of the Italian eyewear sector lies deeply within its district, primarily Belluno, but extending to provinces like Milan, Varese, Reggio Emilia, and central Italy. This united and resilient ecosystem thrives on the mutual respect between major players like Marcolin, Thélios, Safilo, and Luxottica, and smaller manufacturers. This continuous exchange of ideas fosters collective strength during challenging times, enabling the sector to globally champion Made in Italy and its renowned manufacturing excellence.

ANFAO is also actively engaged in crucial institutional commitments, participating in two industry roundtables: one dedicated to protecting Made in Italy and another at the ministry addressing protection and counterfeiting. These shared commitments with the broader fashion and accessories industry necessitate navigating diverse sectoral needs and production chains, including varying perspectives on strategies to safeguard product originality and combat counterfeiting. Internally, ANFAO's leadership team is praised for its close support of members and its extraordinary work. The association has embraced internal changes, fostering a dynamic team of both young and experienced staff who embody a youthful mindset towards innovation. This synergistic team, working both within and outside the association, represents a significant source of satisfaction and a promise for continued delivery and progress.