Italy Fights Back Against Shein's Ultra-Fast Fashion Invasion

The e-commerce giant Shein is encountering growing opposition in Italy, following previous challenges in France. Despite its efforts to woo shoppers in Milan, the fashion capital, both the Italian government and industry leaders are mobilizing against the influx of "ultra-fast fashion." Luca Sburlati, head of the Italian fashion trade body Confindustria Moda, emphasized the severity of the situation, stating, "The textile sector is under attack," and highlighting the "hundreds of thousands of packages" arriving daily, necessitating a strong reaction.

Italy, globally renowned for its high-end fashion with iconic brands like Gucci and Prada, sees its fashion industry contribute approximately five percent to the nation's Gross Domestic Product (GDP). However, the appeal of inexpensive clothing, largely facilitated by platforms such as Shein's ultra-competitive offerings, is as widespread in Italy as it is across the rest of Europe. Founded in China and now based in Singapore, Shein recently held its inaugural Italian catwalk show in Milan, coinciding with urgent government talks on the repercussions of "ultra-fast fashion."

Adolfo Urso, the minister responsible for the "Made in Italy" brand, issued a stern warning about "an invasion of low-cost foreign products that harm our producers and put consumers at risk." The Italian clothing industry is poised to unveil a new strategic plan for Italian fashion in response. At the broader European Union level, the industry advocates for the abolition of the customs duties exemption on packages valued under 150 euros, mirroring a similar levy introduced in the United States.

Critics also voice significant concerns regarding the environmental impact of garments so cheap they are often worn once and discarded. Shein has additionally faced scrutiny over working conditions within its textile factories. Italy's government recently implemented a European Union directive designed to enhance transparency in sales, particularly concerning products' environmental footprint. Shein has already faced sanctions in both Italy and France in this regard, with the French government notably suspending the platform following outrage over the sale of childlike sex dolls, even as nearly 8,000 people queued for the opening of Shein's first permanent store in Paris.

Despite the controversies, Shein's popularity remains undeniable, even in style-conscious Milan. Mattia Trebino, a 24-year-old attending Shein's Milan fashion show, expressed the city's emphasis on style and shared that he receives roughly four Shein packages monthly. He acknowledged the disposability of the clothes, stating, "These clothes, you can only wear them once or twice at most. But they're really cheap." Shein's autumn/winter collection, partially inspired by 1980s Milanese fashion, featured three-piece suits and faux fur coats.

Luca Raveillon, the show's French artistic director, explained the brand's intent: "The idea was to show that everyone can find their style at Shein - and to respond to our critics." He pointed to the collections, asserting their beauty, good quality, and perfect fit, emphasizing that Shein allows individuals to express themselves stylishly while keeping costs low, especially as "life is getting expensive." Alessia Tresoldi, a 27-year-old Italian influencer with a million Instagram followers, praised the show as "amazing," noting that Shein "looks at what's happening on the street."

The allure of low prices is a powerful driver. For instance, a 100% polyester 'fur' coat from the show is available on Shein's website in 15 colors, starting at 28 euros with free shipping. Boosted by such affordability, European consumers now purchase 60% more clothing than they did in 2000, and retain it for half as long, according to an October report by The European House-Ambrosetti consultants. Carlo Cici, the report's author, advised the European fashion industry to innovate more to distinguish itself, noting a paradox: "Consumers are very interested in sustainability but aren't willing to pay for it."