Lagerfeld's Mediterranean Muse, Dumi's Artistic Armor, and Costes' Chic Pajamas Dominate Paris Fashion
A distinctive Mediterranean mood permeated the latest collection from the house of Lagerfeld, drawing its primary inspiration from La Vigie, the exquisite villa where Karl Lagerfeld happily resided for many years on the border of Monaco and France. La Vigie's elegantly easy atmosphere, complete with its lush tropical garden and diverse birdlife, was deftly translated into the collection's aesthetic. A recurring Monaco print, featuring elegiac seaside sketches, adorned a range of pieces including soft cotton pajamas, luxurious silk shirts, and stylish denim jean jackets.
The classical architectural lines of La Vigie also significantly influenced the garments' construction, notably manifesting in silhouettes with pronounced, big shoulders. Lagerfeld's designer, Kun Kim, skillfully riffed on 1980s power dressing, presenting strong profiles and even meticulously darted white shirts complete with padded shoulders. Staying true to the brand's neo-expressionist DNA, the collection showcased matte jersey cocktail wear, smart silk pajama pants accented with a signature KL frieze, and a charming cotton striped twin set featuring shorts and tiny mirror buttons crafted in Karl's profile. Other standout pieces included semi-sheer polyester organza trenches and a sophisticated safari jacket with detachable elements.
Completing these looks was a new accessory: a bag whose silver metallic handle was artfully sculpted in the likeness of Karl's beloved cat, Choupette. Kun Kim affirmed that "This season feels like an homage to Karl," further cementing this tribute with a vibrant fête at the Palais de Tokyo, where Paris Hilton, the star of the brand’s newest campaign, took to the DJ decks. This celebratory event underscored the message that the KL brand continues to thrive and make its mark in Paris.
In a separate and equally significant presentation, Torishéju Dumi showcased her collection, which recently earned her the LVMH Savoir-Faire Prize. Her well-deserved accolade was evident in a collection that bravely and beautifully articulated her vision. Known as a "thinking woman's designer," Dumi masterfully integrates diverse references—military, industrial, and utilitarian—into smart, cohesive garments. This was powerfully demonstrated in her opening look on Naomi Campbell: a sharp black wool jacket featuring a ladylike peplum and extended shoulders, reminiscent of a chevalier's armor.
Dumi’s collection further impressed with pieces such as super-lieutenant-on-maneuvers ribbed wool jerseys paired with cool, asymmetrical ruffled skirts, and perfectly draped, streaked wool dresses with artfully frayed hems. A highlight was a fab second-skin, raspberry leather, boyish shirt matched with over-long pants. Each ensemble felt a touch artistic yet entirely plausible—a hallmark of a truly gifted designer. A rare male model sported a striking priestly soutane made from men’s shirting fabric, beautifully blending the sacred with the profane. The collection's intellectual depth was underscored by its theme, which riffed on the art of Albrecht Dürer, exploring "the tensions between the divine and the earthly, chaos and control, the body and the system, thought and form." A graduate of both the London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins, of Nigerian-Brazilian origin and London-raised, Torishéju Dumi is undoubtedly a special talent with undeniable staying power and panache.
Meanwhile, the fashion scene also celebrated a highly anticipated co-op capsule collection from Olivia von Halle in collaboration with the Hôtel Costes. This luxurious loungewear line, launched at a packed soirée in Paris' perennially chic hotel bar, centers around the "Lila Liaisons"—a reimagined version of von Halle’s bestselling pajama silhouette. The collection is complemented by the "Deneuve Liaisons" headscarf and "Audrey Costes," a playful take on the brand’s signature eye mask. Rendered in Costes’ iconic fiery red, the pieces garnered significant attention, with even the barmen at the event sporting the pajama tops.
This partnership marks Olivia von Halle’s second collaboration with a major-league hotel, following her successful link-up with The Carlyle for a pajama line designed for the legendary Madison Avenue hotel. The Costes collection predominantly features exquisite silk dévoré, distinguished by a remarkably burnout pattern. The intricate print, originating from a hand-drawn sketch in Olivia von Halle’s London atelier, artfully weaves together Costes codes—evoking the spirit of "les années folles," wisps of smoke spelling "Costes," and a subtle "soupçon of naughtiness." This blend makes the collection ideally suited for the burgeoning trend of "new, refined, sexy sweeping fashion." Olivia herself affirmed her love for "turning a mood, a place, a feeling into a pajama," concluding that at Costes, "our pieces feel perfectly at home," a sentiment that undoubtedly extends to one's own home as well.
