Latin American Stars Shine Bright at Paris Fashion Week with Tom Ford's Glamour and Gabriela Hearst's Optimism
Wednesday evening at Paris Fashion Week unfolded with a distinct Latin American flair, highlighted by two formidable shows: an authoritative presentation from the house of Tom Ford, under the creative direction of Haider Ackermann, and a collection of immense charm and commercial appeal by Gabriela Hearst.
The appointment of Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford is rapidly proving to be one of the most astute decisions in recent fashion history. In a season marked by numerous debut designers across more than 15 houses, Ackermann's second display for Tom Ford felt like another dramatic debut, primarily due to the founder, Tom Ford, being notably absent. The exclusive event, limited to just 150 guests, was held at Pavillon Vendôme, strategically nestled between two of the city's most fashionable establishments, Hotels Costes and the Ritz. Guests were enveloped in a midnight blue show space, centered by a gleaming pond of blue sapphire lacquer, where Ackermann’s carefully chosen cast performed, indulged, and elegantly moved.
The models, exuding an air of impossible aloofness, cast their gaze upon the audience, a demeanor perhaps warranted by their undeniably divine appearance. Ackermann's vision for Tom Ford steers clear of quiet luxury or purely practical style, instead consistently embracing high-octane glamour and hyper-hip elegance. The show commenced with a striking trio of women in surgically cut coat dresses crafted from translucent coated lizard skin. Other highlights included languid mannish pantsuits paired with mini bras, and perfectly executed suede biker jackets. For men, sophistication was found in debonair silk blazers in ivory or pearl gray, and Connemara marble green suede blousons.
Styling further enhanced the narrative, with the women sporting chic late '50s bob haircuts, while the men showcased sleek, matinee idol gelled hair. The cast frequently appeared in couples, arms interlocked, embodying the roles of lovers. Eveningwear introduced revealing chiffon dresses featuring daring cut-outs, jockstraps, and a subtle hint of the poshly perverse, adding an edge to the collection's refined glamour.
"My work is all about strength and fragility, and trying to be out there, so this show relates to something in my mind," explained Haider Ackermann amidst a gathering of well-wishers. He further described his mature cast as "my companions of many years," underscoring the personal connection within his work. The show reached its powerful climax with iconic models Erin O’Connor and Scott Barnhill reuniting on the runway in matching cobalt blue suits, owning every stride to the booming sounds of David Bowie’s "Heroes." Ackermann, Colombian-born and Dutch-raised, elucidated the song's significance: "That song is written about forbidden love between two persons. So, we all know what's going on in the world. So yeah, it’s about having the courage to just stand up. I am not saying something political just indicating with a wink."
In delightful contrast, the Gabriela Hearst show was guaranteed to evoke a smile, with ruddy optimism serving as a permanent leitmotif for the brand. This season, that positive energy was amplified by her choice of opening model, a visibly smiling Oscar winner Laura Dern, radiant in a silver lamé gown. The presentation took place on a charming terrace overlooking a beautiful garden in a medieval quarter at the base of the 5th arrondissement. The mood was palpably upbeat as guests settled into their seats, each discovering a finely printed catalogue adorned with watercolor drawings of archetypes: High Priestess, Empress, Nurturer, Mediator, and, optimistically, Lovers.
The collection itself, almost entirely composed of floor-sweeping sheathes, gowns, ponchos, and cloaks, directly telegraphed the elongated dresses depicted in the catalogue. The show's program was interspersed with empowering texts, such as, "I am a radiant being. I am a living treasure. I deeply honor and value the unlimited resources of courage that is within me," celebrating female sagacity and power. Uruguayan-born Hearst meticulously incorporated many of these sketches into her designs, faithfully adhering to the elongated silhouette. Every piece possessed a certain regal touch, yet simultaneously conveyed a profound sense of ease and comfort.
Gabriela Hearst took her final bow in a chic black leather suit paired with a cowgirl skirt, seamlessly blending with her own cast, further enchanting an audience that departed the show in an unequivocally sunny mood.
