Marques'Almeida Blooms with Hope and Light on a London Skyscraper Runway
The acclaimed Portuguese-British label Marques'Almeida (M’A), a prominent name championed by Portugal Fashion, recently made a triumphant return to the London runway. Based in London, the brand's Portuguese founders, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida—both distinguished alumni of Central Saint Martins—increasingly divide their time between London and their homeland. This shift allows them to teach and draw fresh inspiration for their collections, a process vividly reflected in their Spring–Summer 2026 line-up, unveiled during London Fashion Week on Sunday, September 21st, from the breathtaking vantage point of the 59th floor of 22 Bishopsgate, London’s second-tallest skyscraper.
The show itself was a profound and poignant experience, deeply infused with the spirit of the song 'Be Brave' by My Brightest Diamond. Models of all ages and walks of life—including a visibly pregnant woman and a young mother cradling her baby—graced the empty, ethereal space of the London skyscraper. The evocative refrain, “Sh-Sh-Shara now get to work / Sh-Sh-Shara this is going to hurt / Be brave dear one / Be changed or be undone,” resonated through the venue, serving as a powerful homage to women who deftly balance the demanding spheres of work and family life. This message could also be interpreted as a subtle critique of a modern existence that often rushes by, uncherished and unsavoured, presenting a poetic narrative that rivals the brand’s previous, memorable show amidst the romantic vineyards of Portugal's Douro Valley.
The collection unveiled an endless array of looks, beautifully showcased on diverse women who defied conventional notions of age or beauty. From the simple and innocent, characterized by oversized, impactful floral motifs, to elaborate couture pieces featuring unusual cuts and sophisticated silhouettes that beg the question of their wearability, M’A embraced a broad spectrum. Central to the brand's DNA, their signature denim was reimagined and pushed further, appearing with singular washes and innovative designs that underscored the label’s rebellious yet refined aesthetic.
A key theme, as highlighted in Marques’Almeida’s press release, was the constant interplay of surprise, particularly between "softness and lightness as a gesture of change in a time that feels volatile." This delicate balance was artfully achieved through the use of ethereal fabrics like translucent draping and asymmetrical layers, which combined to create an undeniable elegance. These elements gracefully "open the way to the delicacy of colour and flowers," ushering in a fresh perspective for the brand.
Further elaborating on this vision, the M'A note via Portugal Fashion explained how, grounded in the familiarity of an effortless rebellion, the collection expands unashamedly, "blossoming in hope and light." This was manifested through faded, watercolour-style flowers printed on transparent voiles and cotton poplin, which illuminated dark bases. These darker foundations then gave way to lighter layers, draped with an almost handkerchief-like gesture, adding fluidity and visual intrigue to the ensembles.
The colour palette chosen for the collection was equally soothing, punctuated by stronger, awakening notes, particularly evident in the footwear. This ranged from closed-toe flat sandals, nostalgically reminiscent of childhood (intended to keep toes straight), to sturdy, commanding knee-high boots. The latter playfully challenged traditional fashion norms, where the knee was once deemed inelegant and concealed in haute couture; now, freedom reigns, and the collection boldly mixes exclusive delicacy with casual, even rock-edged styles, embracing more skin on show.
This chromatic narrative unfolded through deep burgundy, black, and olive green, before transitioning to powdery yellows, soft pinks, and serene sky blues. This constant balance between structure and transparency, tension and release, defined the collection’s visual story. According to Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, the SS26 collection marks a "confident evolution," where the aesthetic softens without losing its core identity. Luxurious satins, translucent voiles, and delicate hues introduce a new dimension to the brand's signature rebellious energy. Denim, an inescapable part of M'A's DNA, was reinvented with bubble hems and clean silhouettes, alongside the irreverent comfort of wide jeans featuring multiple pockets, earning top marks. Concurrently, traditional classics made way for flowing dresses and voluminous ensembles, setting a bold new tone.
The premiere of the collection took place in a setting of breathtaking impact: a soaring catwalk on the 59th floor of London's second-tallest skyscraper. This "warehouse in the sky" offered panoramic views of the entire city and will soon host a Gordon Ramsay restaurant. Described as a "vertical village" that fosters community and collaboration, this unique space perfectly translated the collection's spirit with precision. The themes of softness and lightness hovered metaphorically over the city, amplifying concepts of vulnerability and transformation. M'A’s latest collection for next summer thus asserts itself as "an embrace of change: fragile, fearless and full of light."
Adding another layer to its ethos, Marques'Almeida has now teamed up with Dylon Detergent, driven by a shared belief that garments should be made to last and be cherished across generations. This meaningful collaboration resulted in five distinct ensembles, each washed with Dylon’s exclusive formula, demonstrating its ability to revitalise colours and restore fibres. As a final thoughtful touch, each guest at the show received a beautifully designed scarf, intended to be a lasting item, cherished for as long as it endures.
