Metamorphoses of Plastics Exhibition Reveals Material's Revolutionary Impact

The exhibition 'Metamorphoses of Plastics: Reality and Multiple Approaches' offers a profound exploration of plastics, drawing from a decade of research by a dedicated group of Portuguese scientists and scholars. Running until April 26, 2026, this research-and-creation project is a collaborative effort between the São João da Madeira Shoe Museum and CIUHCT – the Interuniversity Centre for the History of Science and Technology at the Faculty of Sciences of the University of Lisbon. It also benefits from the insights of European and American colleagues, aiming "to better understand how plastics have become so important, how we can live better with them, and what this material means to all of us," as stated by the Shoe Museum. Further collaborations with institutions like the National Costume Museum (MNT) and various brands help narrate the history of plastic accessories and footwear in Portugal over the last decade.

"Plastics are everywhere, from inside our bodies to outer space," the exhibition explains, underscoring the material's pervasive influence. For a century and a half, this class of materials has dramatically reshaped human life and work, transforming what we wear and how we sustain ourselves and our planet. This exhibition serves as the public presentation of this extensive research, illustrating "how the first plastics made luxury accessible to all, introduces some of the people and companies that made plastics an essential part of industrial development in Portugal, and highlights some of the most significant innovations in Portuguese plastic footwear."

'Metamorphoses of Plastics' extends an invitation to all visitors to delve into a material that has profoundly shaped—and continues to shape—our shared world. Beyond a mere historical account, the exhibition actively explores the paradoxes inherent in plastic, addressing widespread concerns about waste, reuse, and sustainability through an engaging, interactive, and hands-on approach. It encourages visitors to discover how plastic has changed everything and ponder what possibilities still lie ahead for this ubiquitous material.

According to Sara Paiva, director of the Shoe Museum, this exhibition represents a significant evolution of a long-standing research project. "This research project has been under way for 10 years; a few years ago it gave rise to an exhibition in Leiria, called 'Plasticities', and now 'Metamorphoses of Plastics' is, shall we say, a second phase of the project," she explained to FashionNetwork.com. Bringing together Portuguese, European, and American researchers, the exhibition's core aim is to present this academic research to the public, offering a rich multidisciplinary perspective that includes insights from chemistry, social sciences, heritage, and the history and conservation of plastics.

The exhibition's structure moves beyond a simple chronological reading of plastics' history in Portugal. The first room features an assembly of objects that speak to the earliest forms of plastics, including pieces generously loaned by the Museum of Natural History and Science, the National Museum of Music, and the National Costume Museum. These artifacts collectively tell the compelling story of the transition from traditional natural materials to the advent of the first synthetic plastics.

Subsequent sections present detailed case studies and study objects from companies pivotal to the early production and introduction of plastics in Portugal, such as AG and Fábrica de Pentes do Ribeirinho. The exhibition also spotlights specific innovations within the footwear industry, featuring iconic brands like Xavi, Cortebel, and the more contemporary, paradigmatic example of Lemon Jelly. These footwear items are showcased alongside other 20th-century plastic fashion accessories from the MNT collection, including fans, handbags, and hair combs, illustrating the broad impact of plastic across fashion. As Sara Paiva noted, the Shoe Museum's role is to "tell the story of plastics and use selected examples of footwear to tell that story."

At its heart, the exhibition aims to raise awareness not only about the environmental and societal issues surrounding plastic but also about its significant achievements as a utilitarian material. It vividly demonstrates "how plastic came to make luxury objects accessible," evolving from a mere substitute for high-status materials like tortoiseshell, horn, and mother-of-pearl. By the mid-20th century, plastic had become so widely democratized that its interpretation transformed completely. "It is also a reflection on these paradoxes, on how, for example, society currently views plastics," a theme directly addressed in the second room.

Indeed, plastics have been absolutely vital to numerous sectors, from food and health to the democratisation of goods, including footwear. However, the overproduction of recent years has regrettably led to a widespread perception of plastic as something disposable, and even harmful to health. This current view stands in stark contrast to its original premise, which fundamentally ran counter to such ephemeral use, highlights the exhibition director.

For those interested in a deeper engagement, guided tours are now open for booking. Looking ahead, the launch of the exhibition catalogue is planned for next year, preceding the close of 'Metamorphoses of Plastics'. The project has already generated academic discussion, with an international congress on the subject having been successfully held two days prior to the exhibition's opening.