Milan Fashion Week Closes with a Flourish of Silk Artistry and Global Craftsmanship

The final day of Milan’s in-person catwalk shows concluded in splendid style beneath an azure sky on Sunday, offering a refreshing contrast to the earlier rain that had marred parts of fashion week. Before the highly anticipated Giorgio Armani show, which brought the day to a close, several collections captivated audiences with their rich creativity and distinct immersive worlds, ranging from Daniele Calcaterra’s Berber-inspired aesthetics to the masterful knitwear of J.Salinas, crafted by Peruvian artisans, and the cinematic, 18th-century influences permeating Pierre-Louis Mascia’s designs.

Pierre-Louis Mascia, a designer unparalleled in his ability to evoke poetic nostalgia, opened his enchanting show with the warm, melancholic hum of Yves Montand’s "Les Feuilles Mortes." For his latest collection, the Toulouse-born creative drew deeply from his favourite film, Marcel Carné’s "Les Enfants du Paradis." He explained that the black-and-white film, shot during the war with its themes of impossible love set in a theatre, dictated the collection's initial faded, dusty, and sun-bleached hues, into which vibrant colours gradually seeped. Another significant inspiration came from 18th-century fabrics and silk jacquards of court dresses housed in the archives of the Musée Galliera, accessed through an upcoming partnership set to be announced next March.

These dual inspirations culminated in a collection of supreme elegance and refinement, where silk was the undisputed star, manifest in shimmering, fluid pieces. The garments were designed for lightness and comfort, featuring minimal fastenings and a deliberate absence of superfluous details. Mascia’s signature drawings and illustrations took centre stage, including twenty-one new original prints where diverse themes harmoniously converged in finely calibrated balance. Landscapes in India ink, lush foliage, classic toile de Jouy, bold animal prints, rich tapestry effects, abstract or geometric motifs, and intricate paisley patterns all contributed to precious silhouettes. Highlights included a silk robe-style coat subtly slipped to reveal a shoulder, blouses perfectly matched with skirts in complementary tones and prints evoking imaginary, melancholic tales. Blouses and slip dresses were crafted from finely fringed shawls, while delicate tunics fell to the knee over ankle-tied trousers, at times echoing saris. Lightweight overcoats gracefully whirled above shirts and skirts fashioned from silky fabrics. In collaboration with his partner, the Como silk printer Achille Pinto, Mascia also presented a breathtaking series of silk pieces that remarkably simulated denim, further expanding his innovative range. His growing visibility is evident, with revenue projected to rise by 15% for 2025.

For his Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Daniele Calcaterra embarked on a captivating journey through time and cultures, spanning the twenties, forties, and nineties, with an evocative detour through the Sahara. The collection masterfully oscillated between austere, masculine rigour and sensuous, free-flowing femininity. One aspect presented a wardrobe characterized by trench coats, overcoats, and notably, suits featuring wide-lapel jackets, oversized men’s waistcoats, and generously cut, rounded trousers that empowered women through volume. This comfortable and practical everyday attire included two-tone jeans, classic striped shirts elongated into tunics at the back, a sophisticated slit pencil skirt, and a chic suit with a swirling skirt. The other facet of the collection embraced a more lustrous and fluid aesthetic, with long fringed silk dresses gracefully caressing the body, cloud-like tops adorned with ostrich feathers or fashioned from series of fine fringes of varying lengths, and ethereal sheer organza looks. Scarves were artfully integrated into outfits to impart an airy touch, appearing in skirts or T-shirts, sometimes draped over shoulders like small capes, or elegantly tied around the neck. Ethnic details were subtly woven throughout the collection, such as Berber jewellery and belts accentuating the collars and cuffs of certain blouses.

J.Salinas, for his second Milan show, sought to make a significant impact on the European market, enlisting the expertise of stylist Anna Dello Russo. Designer Jorge Luis Salinas, a Peruvian couturier renowned for his knitwear, staged his presentation in an elegant, sun-drenched city-centre garden, pulling out all the stops. While historically focused on deploying countless knitting techniques to crochet sinuous mermaid dresses in a multitude of stitches, this season Salinas broadened his offering with more wearable pieces designed specifically for a Western clientele. These included chic mini dresses, miniskirts, shorts, flared trousers, jackets, and cropped tops with ruffled shoulders, elegantly tied at the back with long knitted ribbons. The collection was presented in a delightful pastel palette of dragée pink, sage green, sky blue, and tangerine, serving as a vibrant showcase for Peruvian craftsmanship. Each piece was meticulously knitted in Pima cotton by local craftswomen, then assembled to create intricate openwork garments. These pieces featured a cascade of motifs—including roses, flowers, raised polka dots, feathers, shells, and scales—alongside layers of doilies and other lace, which, arranged in garlands, gracefully traced curves and whorls around the body. Salinas actively collaborates with communities of craftswomen across Peru, with approximately fifty knitters enriching his work, each contributing her unique ideas and skills. Seven of these talented craftswomen travelled to Milan on Sunday, where they greeted the public in their traditional dress to a resounding round of applause, celebrating their invaluable contribution.