Milan Fashion Week Honors Giorgio Armani Amidst New Beginnings and Emerging Talent

Milan Fashion Week is set to commence on Tuesday with a bittersweet atmosphere, as the fashion world gathers to mourn and celebrate the indelible legacy of Giorgio Armani, who passed away on September 4. The iconic Italian designer will be a central figure in everyone’s hearts, especially on the evening of Sunday, September 28. This date marks the final event of the fashion week dedicated to the Spring/Summer 2026 women’s ready-to-wear collections, featuring the last creations by 'King Giorgio' himself. Staged in the main courtyard of Palazzo Brera, the runway show will also commemorate the 50th anniversary of Armani’s eponymous label, promising to be the crowning and most emotional event of the week.

The Italian luxury label has confirmed that all scheduled events will proceed as planned, including the poignant closing show, the double presentation for its younger line Emporio Armani on Thursday, September 25, and a dedicated exhibition at the Pinacoteca di Brera gallery, showcasing 150 looks from the extensive Armani archives. Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian Fashion Chamber (CNMI), emphasized the week's significance, stating, “We will celebrate [Milan] Fashion Week by paying tribute to one of its founders, Giorgio Armani, and to his creative, entrepreneurial and personal legacy, so valuable in this transformation period the fashion industry is going through,” as he unveiled what is anticipated to be an intense and memorable program.

Between September 23 and 29, Milan will host a staggering 171 events, including 54 in-person shows, mirroring the number from the February edition. In addition to these physical presentations, four digital shows are slated for the end of the week, on Monday, September 29. These will feature Maxivive, emerging labels such as Mein Corp by Italian designer Lorenzo Sala, Nadya Dyzak—a Ukrainian brand launched in 2008—and Zenam, the label by Cameroonian designer Paul Tanonkou, which previously made an appearance on the menswear calendar.

The calendar introduces 10 new names, encompassing both emerging labels and returning participants like Milano Moda Graduate, a collective show by the city’s fashion academies, thereby compensating for an equal number of absentees. While Giorgio Armani’s half-century reign has concluded, this week signifies a fresh chapter, welcoming a new generation of creative leaders. Notable debuts include Demna (Gvasalia) at Gucci, who will unveil his first looks for the Kering group’s premier label in a presentation on Tuesday, September 23. Dario Vitale will take his initial steps at Versace following its recent acquisition by the Prada group, adopting a similar understated format on September 26. Wednesday, September 24, marks Simone Bellotti’s debut for Jil Sander, while Louise Trotter will present her first collection for Bottega Veneta on Saturday, September 27, as the label rejoins the Milan Fashion Week calendar after skipping the February edition. Another highlight will be Fendi’s co-ed show on Wednesday, September 24, overseen by Silvia Venturini Fendi, which will offer a final celebration of the Roman house’s centenary. FashionNetwork.com has learned that French mezzo-soprano Axelle Saint-Cirel might be a surprise guest, performing six arias with harp accompaniment.

Among the eagerly anticipated events is the maiden Milanese show by British ready-to-wear label Knwls, scheduled for Wednesday, September 24. This London-based brand has garnered significant celebrity following and rapidly risen in prominence in recent years, acclaimed for its sensual Y2K silhouettes and focus on female empowerment. Launched in 2017 by British designer Charlotte Knowles with her partner, Canadian Alexandre Arsenault, Knwls was an LVMH Prize finalist in 2022 and is now stocked in over 50 leading multi-brand retailers worldwide. Another significant debut is set for Friday, September 26, with the first runway show by Sa Su Phi, a womenswear label established in 2021 during the pandemic. Founded by Sara Ferrero, an experienced finance executive, and Susanna Cucco, a design expert and creative consultant whose agency has collaborated with numerous top labels for over 25 years, Sa Su Phi began with luxury knitwear and has since developed a minimalist, sophisticated, and timeless style, winning over approximately 70 top retailers globally.

Milan Fashion Week will also see the return of several prominent names, including Boss, Calcaterra, The Attico, and Stella Jean, all of whom have been absent from Milan in recent seasons. Anglo-Nigerian designer Ineye Tokyo James is also making a comeback; after his rookie show in Milan in February 2022, James lay low before returning with a digital show in March. Vietnamese designer Phan Dang Hoang, who debuted in Milan in September 2024 but subsequently did not return, is also back on the schedule. Furthermore, Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor and Pierre-Louis Mascia, both previously featured on the men’s calendar until January, are now included in the womenswear program.

The presentation calendar will introduce 14 more new names, including young French designer Henri Paris with his sophisticated creations, Davii, Daizy Shely, Forte_Forte, Îacaré, Kasai, Moja Rowa, Nissa, Pé de Chumpo, Saman Loira, Seafarer, Simon Cracker (which typically shows during menswear week), Vespa, and JW Anderson, which has also scheduled an event at its newly renovated store. Trussardi is also making a comeback, with a short film starring Eva Herzigova and Fernando Lindez set to be screened at the Anteo cinema on September 28.

Conversely, some familiar names are absent from this edition’s runway show calendar. Versace and Gucci, as mentioned, have opted for more intimate presentations. Marni and Bally are also off the show calendar, both undergoing a style transition, with Marni’s new creative director Meryll Rogge slated to show in Milan next February. Fiorucci has shifted its slot to the menswear week in June. Other absentees include Swedish label Avavav, which had been showing in Milan since September 2023, Susan Fang (which showed in March with Dolce & Gabbana’s support), Philipp Plein, K-Way, and Dsquared2.

As always, Milan Fashion Week can rely on several top Italian names, including Prada, Moschino, Roberto Cavalli, Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, and Max Mara, ensuring a strong foundation of established luxury. Beyond the official schedule, a plethora of off-calendar events will add to the vibrancy of the week. These include the Maestri d'Eccellenza Prize, an award recognizing Italy’s top artisans, sponsored by Thélios and LVMH in partnership with CNMI and Confartigianato, Italy’s national artisanal association, with its ceremony scheduled for September 23. Kering will contribute with Cinemoda Club, a fashion-related film festival sponsored by the French luxury group and Vogue Italy, scheduled from September 25-27, as well as S|Style, a spotlight on sustainable emerging labels, including Jeanne Friot from France, from September 26-28. Also on the program are the third edition of the Black Carpet Awards on September 24, the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards (the sustainable fashion prize established by CNMI in 2017) on September 27, and numerous new store openings within Milan’s luxury shopping district, complemented by cocktail parties and gala evenings galore.