Milan Fashion Week Kicks Off With a Luxury Store Opening Spree

Milan Fashion Week, commencing on Tuesday, September 23, is set to witness a remarkable series of prestigious store openings and inaugurations that are actively reshaping the luxury landscape within the Lombardy capital. Located primarily in the famed Quadrilatero della Moda and its surrounding streets, these successive launches bring together an impressive roster of high-end brands, including Saint Laurent, Fendi, Celine, Valentino, Dries Van Noten, Alberta Ferretti, Plan C, JW Anderson, and Ports 1961. This significant momentum underscores the renewed dynamism of the upmarket industry, signaling a clear and confident bet on a sector rebound.

Marking a significant debut in Milan, Dries Van Noten has established its very first address in the fashionable Brera district, situated at 11 Via Brera, a historic cobbled lane in the city centre. Adopting the "Gallery" format previously seen in Paris and Brussels, this 50-square-metre jewel box is exclusively dedicated to the brand's fragrance, beauty, and accessories collections. The store beautifully preserves the spirit of the 19th-century palazzo it occupies with its vaulted ceilings, stone walls, and patina, while simultaneously exuding a chic, discreet atmosphere. Notable design pieces, such as a splendid Venini glass chandelier from the 1970s and a Silvio Berrone desk from the 1950s, further enhance the space.

On the iconic Via Montenapoleone, Saint Laurent’s new flagship at number 8 stands out prominently. The boutique has undergone a comprehensive transformation and expansion, almost doubling its size to nearly 1,300 square metres across three floors. It introduces, for the first time in Italy, the new store concept envisioned by creative director Anthony Vaccarello, while meticulously paying homage to Italian craftsmanship and innovative design. The interior design incorporates precious materials like marble, ceramics, bronze mouldings, and eucalyptus wood, creating an atmosphere that is both glamorous and contemporary. Works of art, furniture, and other design pieces by luminaries such as Gio Ponti, Carlo Scarpa, Osvaldo Borsani, Marco Zanuso, Aldo Tura, Gaetano Pesce, and Vincenzo de Cotiis are thoughtfully dispersed throughout, evoking the feel of a chic Milanese apartment.

Further along the same illustrious street, at 20 Via Montenapoleone, Valentino’s historic address, which originally opened in 1969, reopened in early September following an extensive makeover. The contemporary store spans three levels and 1,170 square metres, characterized by an entirely white interior with striking black details. Large green velvet sofas, elegant Art Deco lighting, and brass furnishings contribute a glamorous touch, reflecting the eclectic aesthetic of the house's creative director, Alessandro Michele. The boutique is thoughtfully arranged with two distinct entrances, leading respectively to the womenswear and menswear areas, offering comprehensive collections from ready-to-wear to accessories and beauty products.

In the neighbouring Via Sant’Andrea, at number 16, JW Anderson is also preparing to unveil a refreshed look for its jewel-box boutique, which was inaugurated in May 2023. This metamorphosis mirrors the broader transformation of Jonathan Anderson’s own house since his appointment as artistic director for both men’s and women’s collections at Christian Dior. The updated vision is to offer an expanded lifestyle proposition, encompassing everything from knitwear to designer chairs and ceramic objects, with a strong emphasis on craftsmanship. This approach aligns with the brand’s new store concepts, such as the one recently unveiled in London, which are being reimagined as true cabinets of curiosities.

Making its debut with a very first boutique is Plan C, the Italian ready-to-wear label launched in 2018 by Carolina Castiglioni, following her thirteen years at Marni. Situated on Via Manzoni at number 21, the luxury designer label, known for its timeless, design-led fashion and distinctive details, has quickly garnered acclaim in leading multi-brand stores worldwide. The new 380-square-metre store, dubbed "Plan C Frame," was conceived by Castiglioni in collaboration with the April platform and architecture practice (AB)Normal. Its design features geometric forms and a lively palette, functioning as a concept store organized into differently coloured zones to accommodate a variety of worlds. A pale-green jewel-box pop-up, for instance, showcases Aliita jewellery by Venezuelan-Dutch designer Cynthia Vilchez, celebrating her brand's 10th anniversary, while a large central red spiral staircase leading to the basement has been cleverly transformed into a large bookshop and magazine kiosk. Castiglioni describes it as "a lively, dynamic, interesting modular space" designed to "host various brands, designers and categories, which will rotate regularly," emphasizing that "This investment is intended to make us better known to the general public and to increase our audience."

Building on last spring's grand unveilings by Bulgari, Louis Vuitton, and Tiffany & Co. on Via Montenapoleone, the LVMH group is continuing its expansion with a series of eagerly anticipated openings this season. Fendi is inaugurating its Palazzo Fendi Milano, prominently located at the end of Via Montenapoleone and extending under the porticoes of Corso Matteotti. This new address occupies a majestic six-storey building that pays homage to Milan's architectural heritage. The expansive space houses a dedicated leather and fur workshop, showcasing the house's artisanal expertise, alongside a new restaurant opened in partnership with Langosteria. Meanwhile, the Celine boutique at number 25 on the same street is scheduled to reopen shortly with a new layout and enlarged space, and Christian Dior is also planning the opening of a major presence in Milan in the coming months.

Parallel to Via Montenapoleone, on Via della Spiga at number 26, Alberta Ferretti is opening its new flagship. This historic Italian house, now operating under the renewed creative vision of Lorenzo Serafini since his appointment last year, presents a fresh layout concept developed collaboratively by Re-Design Studio, led by Riccardo Furlani, and AAFW - Alessandro Fantetti Workshop. Spanning two levels and 250 square metres, the flagship features a restrained, minimalist décor primarily in shades of white. According to a company press release, "The choice of materials favours neutral tones and soft surfaces, in dialogue with integrated lighting, offering a soft, natural effect. Every part of the boutique contributes to a welcoming and intimate experience, while retaining the spirit of timeless elegance typical of the house."

Nearby, also on Via della Spiga at number 8, the flagship store of the luxury womenswear brand Ports 1961 has recently opened its doors. Spread over two floors and 200 square metres, the refined space is characterized by a restrained palette, geometric forms, and carefully selected materials. Founded by Japanese-Canadian designer Luke Tanabe in Toronto in 1961, and now owned by Ports International Enterprises—a company linked to Hong Kong's PCD Group—the house maintains its creative studio in Milan's Brera district. With Francesco Bertolini appointed as creative director last year, this new opening marks an important milestone for the brand.