Paris Fashion Week Finale: Rogge's Eclectic Tribute, Cardin's Cosmic Return, and Ujoh's Sunny Escape

The four-week international fashion season concluded with a vibrant finale at Paris Fashion Week, marked by three distinct and memorable presentations. The season drew to a close with Meryll Rogge's indie show, an unexpected highlight. We also saw Pierre Cardin revisit outer space aesthetics and Ujoh deliver a bright, sunny statement, each offering a unique perspective on contemporary fashion.

Meryll Rogge's collection was arguably the season's most liberating and pathbreaking moment. Staged within the Musée des Archives Nationales, a setting that harmoniously blended medieval, renaissance, and neo-classical architecture, the venue perfectly complemented the collection's eclectic spirit. Rogge's designs masterfully combined lightweight tweeds, evocative contemporary travel photographs, striking costume jewelry, and a moody rocker vibe. Drawing inspiration from Cookie Mueller's cult biography, "Walking Through Clear Water In A Pool Painted Black," the collection evoked a journey through clubland, bohemian allure, and after-hours mischief. For those familiar with Mueller's iconic presence in the 1980s Lower East Side, seeing her aesthetic permeate this collection was particularly poignant. Key looks included skimpy knits paired with pencil skirts, high-gloss sleeveless parka-dresses, and a stunning white ruffled faux wedding dress, the latter directly referencing Nan Goldin's famous photograph of Cookie at her 1986 wedding. Rogge, the Belgian-born designer, who is set to debut her first collection for Marni next February, elevated her show further with a fantastic selection of jewelry from Antwerp's Wouters & Hendrix, a firm known for its collaborations with Dries Van Noten. The collection felt like a fitting homage to an icon, bringing down the curtain on a truly unique runway season.

Pierre Cardin transported audiences to a space-age realm, with towering models gliding pre-show in padded, shiny body stockings, high heels, and futuristic visors, embodying intergalactic Valkyries and lean superheroes. The show unfolded within Cardin’s historic boutique, strategically located opposite the Élysée Palace, where scores of gendarmes and CRS paramilitary police notably smiled and applauded. Designed by his nephew Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, the collection adeptly played with many of the house's enduring codes: futurist designs, studded embellishments, and bold graphic shapes. Garments were draped over black, white, pink, and green body stockings, featuring striking elements like one-meter diameter pink circles, Imperial Roman purple spaceship commander tunics, and coral-hued padded waders. Playful details such as lime green leaves attached to hips, giant united bow ties, and 1960s-inspired graphic waistcoats and soft harnesses added to the aesthetic. In a clever flourish, scores of magnetic copper-hued toadstools adorned one model. A segment featuring four pre-teen children touring the runway added a touch of innocence, contrasting with the ongoing legal dispute among Cardin relatives over the estate's control. While the collection arguably felt like a step back in time, reminiscent of a 1960s sci-fi movie, one suspects Pierre Cardin himself, who took immense pride in his revolutionary 1960s designs, would have appreciated this tribute.

Ujoh’s latest show offered a refreshing escape to a sunny seaside resort, with elements of sails, fishnets, swimming togs, and windcheaters rippling through many of the looks. Staged in the expansive Saut du Loup space deep within the Palais de Tokyo, the presentation commenced with loosely cut admirals' blazers, cleverly opened at the side and paired with delicate fishnet skirts. The design duo, Mitsuru and Aco Nishizaki, showcased wide-cut pants reminiscent of Lord Nelson’s sailors, alongside others crafted from fishnet lace or organza adorned with aquatic motifs. Often, the most impactful looks were the simplest, such as the elegant sleeveless and belted trench coat dresses, or the effortlessly wearable tunic dresses finished with oversized matching ties. In this co-ed presentation, the men's collection featured practical technical cargo pants, short-sleeve sweatshirts with patch pockets, striped pajama shirts, and notably, beautiful technical taffeta dusters, which models wore with an evident sense of pride. Founded in 2009, Ujoh continues its steady, agreeable ascent in the fashion world, leaving audiences eagerly anticipating summer.