Paris Fashion Week Heats Up with Anrealage's Animated Art, Lanvin's Archive Chic, and Stella McCartney's Feathered Fantasy
Tuesday marked an intense and vibrant second day for Paris Fashion Week, seamlessly weaving together new and emerging names with established houses and beloved stars. Couturiers unveiled an array of enticing new offerings, setting the stage for a fashion spectacle in full swing. Among the designers who particularly distinguished themselves with their innovative presentations were Anrealage, Lanvin, and Stella McCartney.
At Anrealage, Japanese designer Kunihiko Morinaga delivered a deeply moving show for the upcoming summer season, masterfully blending cutting-edge technology with profound conceptual artistry. His collection was a tribute to movement, featuring garments that seemed to come alive with an autonomous, magical quality. Layers of silk ruffles, meticulously sewn to form a bubble bodice, gently lifted at the bust in time with a heartbeat, creating a truly lifelike motion. Other pieces displayed similar dynamism, with coat lapels softly parting, the scrolled edges of ruffled dresses rising and floating momentarily before gracefully settling, and large chiffon collars fluttering playfully from side to side.
The collection's incredible vitality was further amplified by a magnificent cascade of multicoloured motifs, illustrations, and prints unfurled across every fabric, from silk and organza to poplin. These vibrant artworks were created by neurodivergent artists or those with intellectual disabilities, in collaboration with the Japanese brand Heralbony, adding a profound layer of meaning and visual richness. Anrealage elevated these creations with voluminous frilled dresses, cheerful frock coats, elegantly flared trousers, and striking mosaic jacquard coats, all featuring wide, billowing ruffles that layered into ethereal, cocoon-like silhouettes. A humorous and playful animal touch enlivened this vividly colourful wardrobe, appearing in charming accessories like leather gloves tipped with golden claws, and adorable plush cat bags with stuffed tails, which models affectionately hugged and stroked as they walked.
For his second showing at Lanvin, artistic director Peter Copping continued his meticulous work of rebuilding and reimagining, delving deep into the archives of France’s oldest couture house to infuse them with contemporary relevance. The resulting silhouettes were both sinuous and timeless, imbued with an almost imperceptible retro charm. Distinctive 1920s column lines, along with subtle Art Deco references, permeated the collection, as did Jeanne Lanvin’s signature bows, tied here along the arms or gracefully tracing a neckline. The house’s iconic blue was prominently highlighted across various looks. Now under the ownership of the Chinese conglomerate Lanvin Group (formerly Fosun Fashion Group), the brand showcased a redefined "ultimate chic." Both men and women sported headbands, embodying this versatile elegance—by turns everyday and glamorous. Looks included voluminous blouses slipped over slim trousers, and fluid dresses composed of long, twirling panels, some subtly lit with crystals. For a touch of sensuality, fitted roll-neck jumpers and tailored jackets were daringly designed with completely backless constructions. The Lanvin man, when not in classic suits or coats, embraced bolder choices, opting for a Prince of Wales-check Bermuda-shorts suit or vibrant hues such as a turquoise silk shirt with abstract patterns paired with lime green jeans.
In the evening, Stella McCartney set an electric mood at the Centre Pompidou, with crowds thronging the forecourt as guests took their seats inside the iconic building. The front row, as always, glittered with celebrities, including Helen Mirren, who opened the show by reciting the first verse of The Beatles’ “Come Together.” This famous song, once performed by Paul McCartney—father of the British designer known for her unwavering commitment to eco-conscious fashion—provided the central thread for the collection. “Come together right now over me,” the English actress declared, powerfully setting the tone for the entire show. Models gracefully strode down the long catwalk, dressed in an eclectic mix of elegant business suits and playful skater mini-dresses, each carrying a brightly coloured bag. Lightness was the prevailing theme, manifested in jackets and blouses that flared into delicate corollas, skirts unfurling in long, undulating trains, and cloud-like bodysuits and dresses bristling with soft ostrich feathers in pastel hues. Bubble tops were playfully tousled with fabric fringing, while clinging roll-neck dresses seemed to melt sensuously over the body, embodying an effortless fluidity.
