Paris Fashion Week Set for Unprecedented Shakeup with New Designers and Major Debuts

The upcoming Paris Fashion Week, commencing on Monday, September 29, is poised to be an unprecedented event in Parisian fashion history. As the French capital prepares to inherit the mantle from New York, London, and Milan, it promises an exceptional program fueled by a recent creative upheaval across many leading labels, leading to a significant reshuffle of creative directors. With new design narratives on the cusp of revelation, fresh talents joining the official calendar, and a roster of exciting comebacks, the week dedicated to the Spring/Summer 2026 women’s ready-to-wear collections is generating immense anticipation.

Scheduled from Monday, September 29, to Tuesday, October 7, Paris Fashion Week will showcase a robust schedule featuring 74 runway shows, an increase from the 72 in March, alongside 37 presentations, totaling 111 labels. This edition introduces several notable alterations to the customary program, promising a dynamic and engaging experience for industry insiders and enthusiasts alike.

Among the established fashion houses, Saint Laurent is set to inaugurate the runway proceedings on Monday. This will be followed by Louis Vuitton on Tuesday, and Dior on Wednesday. The same evening will see Balmain celebrating its 80th anniversary with a special presentation. The latter part of the week features Maison Margiela, Hermès, and Balenciaga on Saturday, October 3, while Celine and Valentino are scheduled for Sunday, October 5, culminating with Chanel on Monday, October 6.

A staggering nine major designer debuts are slated for this action-packed week, amplifying the excitement. Headlining these highly anticipated introductions is Jonathan Anderson, who will unveil his inaugural womenswear collection for Christian Dior on October 1, building on the success of his menswear debut in June. Equally significant is Matthieu Blazy's much-anticipated collection for Chanel on Monday, October 6. Ten months after his remarkable appointment at the helm of the legendary Parisian house, the former Bottega Veneta creative director's work will undoubtedly attract global attention and intense scrutiny, marking what is expected to be a highlight of the week.

Further enhancing the debut landscape, Miguel Castro Freitas, known for his work at Sportmax, Dries Van Noten, and Dior, will present his first collection for Mugler on Thursday, October 2. Just four hours later, Mark Howard Thomas will make his debut at Carven. The British designer, who served as creative director for Helmut Lang from 2017 to 2019, joined the Parisian house in 2023 as creative director, succeeding Louise Trotter – who has since moved to Bottega Veneta – having previously been her right-hand man.

A new chapter is also poised to unfold at Loewe, where Proenza Schouler founders Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough will reveal their premiere collection on Friday, October 3. The following day, October 4, will see Pierpaolo Piccioli, formerly of Valentino, stage his maiden show for Balenciaga. Additionally, Maison Margiela will present the first ready-to-wear collection designed by Glenn Martens, who offered a glimpse of his intended direction for the label during Paris Haute Couture Week in July.

While Glenn Martens takes on the challenging task of succeeding the iconic John Galliano at Margiela, Michael Rider steps into the formidable shoes of Hedi Slimane at Celine. Rider, who also offered a preview of his vision with a pre-collection shown in July, is an understated US designer, still largely unknown to the general public, and will make his Parisian plunge on Sunday, October 5. Later that same day, the spotlight will turn to the irreverent Dutch designer Duran Lantink, whom Jean-Paul Gaultier himself has described as "fashion's new enfant terrible," as he assumes leadership at Jean Paul Gaultier.

This intense edition of Paris Fashion Week is further enriched by the inclusion of 13 new names, encompassing both significant comebacks and emerging labels. Kicking off the week is a runway show by Julie Kegels, a promising young Belgian designer who studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy and has garnered considerable attention in recent seasons. Kegels will open proceedings on September 29, a day that will conclude with the Saint Laurent show and a major public event organized by L'Oréal Paris in front of the Hôtel de Ville.

On the second day, September 30, another fresh talent will emerge: the subversive fashion of Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, whose Matières Fécales label joins the official calendar for the first time. Also making her debut on October 7 is Meryll Rogge, the eponymous Belgian designer who recently won the Andam Prize and has just been appointed creative director of Marni, marking a significant milestone in her career.

Beyond the highly anticipated returns of Carven, Celine, Mugler, Loewe, Maison Margiela, and Jean Paul Gaultier, all under new creative direction, other notable comebacks include Vetements on October 3, which missed last winter’s edition. Additionally, Thom Browne, which showed in New York last season, and Agnès b., returning to the Parisian runways after a few seasons’ absence, will present on October 6. Lanvin, whose first collection under the aegis of Peter Copping was unveiled on the eve of Paris Haute Couture Week in January, has strategically repositioned itself within the womenswear calendar, showing on September 30.

Conversely, eleven labels that showcased last season will be absent from the current program. These include Kenzo, which presented its women’s collection alongside menswear in June, and Off-White, which opted to show in New York. Duran Lantink is now integrated into Jean Paul Gaultier. Véronique Leroy will present her new collection via a lookbook. Furthermore, Marine Serre, Ludovic de Saint-Sernin, Atlein, Rokh, Undercover, and Christian Wijnants have all chosen a presentation format this season. Finally, the students of the French Fashion Institute (IFM) are scheduled to stage their collective show next February.