Paris Fashion Week: Volume, Sparkle, and Redefined Elegance for Spring-Summer 2026
The eighth day of the Paris shows, dedicated to Spring-Summer 2026 collections, unveiled a distinct vision of feminine elegance. Silhouettes either gained dramatic volume or elongated gracefully, while ornamentation shimmered with intricate, sparkling details. The overarching mood was one of heightened sophistication, embracing a romantic, subtly glamorous vein. Numerous collections presented on Monday, including those from Sacai, Zimmermann, Agnès b., and Ungaro, collectively redefined this sophisticated aesthetic for the upcoming season.
For her Spring-Summer 2026 collection, showcased at the brand’s new headquarters—a historic building with a vast glass roof in Paris’s 6th arrondissement—Japanese designer Chitose Abe of Sacai returned to her core design principles. Her collection was a masterful exploration of unusual constructions, intricate layering, and innovative material blends, revisiting the key ingredients that have solidified Sacai's success. This new space, an old edifice formerly housing Balenciaga on rue Cassette, provided a fitting backdrop for her inventive approach.
Abe deconstructed and reassembled the archetypes of the women’s wardrobe, from trench coats and denim to knitwear, outerwear, the classic white shirt, and the indispensable little black dress. These familiar staples were reimagined into covetable hybrids, featuring voluminous black and white silhouettes. The collection's mood was further accentuated by Oxford shoes adorned with oversized tassels, lending an unexpected eighteenth-century flair. Supermodel Naomi Campbell epitomized this vision, closing the show in a superb sleeveless tuxedo featuring a dramatic train, perfectly embodying Sacai's blend of classic and avant-garde.
Each piece within the collection felt almost unique in its construction, detailing, or fusion of materials, yet conveyed an effortless wearability, offering a sense of freedom and movement. Sacai, more than ever, treats fashion as a playful experiment. This season, the house introduced a novel “reversal” technique: the lower sections of classic garments ingeniously flip up to fasten high on the body, generating unexpected forms. For instance, black trousers were hoisted and anchored to the shoulders of a tuxedo jacket, transforming it into an oval cape. The same inventive trick was applied to the hem of a long white shirt, which laced through eyelets at the shoulders, and to panels of long canvas skirts, rising to the waist to create dramatic peplums and ballooning shapes.
Movement remained a constant theme, evident in undulating and godet-flared blouses and skirts. A vibrant shot of lime yellow provided a striking contrast to a black-and-white patchwork maxi dress. Leather blousons and denim pieces were artfully taken apart and reassembled into puzzle-like garments with soft, rounded contours. Further along, mini dresses emerged from a lively mix-and-match of patterns, combining stripes, polka dots, and floral motifs, while waterproof canvas was fused with luxurious tuxedo satin. The collection concluded with breathtaking tweed dresses that unraveled into captivating cascades of fringing, marking a breathtaking display brimming with energy and invention.
After a notable absence from the catwalks since 2019, Agnès b., the eponymous designer Agnès Troublé, made a triumphant return to Paris Fashion Week. Monday’s grand manifesto show celebrated her half-century legacy in fashion, marking a significant milestone. The event also heralded her re-entry into the fragrance world with "Agnès b. Paris Le Parfum," a new scent crafted by the designer in collaboration with perfumer Isaac Sinclair, set for an October 14 launch. Made in France, the perfume is designed to embody "discretion, timeless elegance and the freedom to be oneself."
The show, held at the historic Collège des Bernardins, featured nearly 90 models, including 15 men, traversing a long runway to the accompaniment of a live concerto. Principal dancer Hugo Marchand opened the spectacle with an aria from Rameau’s "Les Indes Galantes," played on piano by Martin Beau. What followed was an expansive parade of creations that have defined the brand's history, showcasing a rich tapestry of archive pieces, thoughtfully reworked models, and exciting new releases that span her illustrious career.
The initial segment of the show highlighted her signature ultra-light dresses crafted from fine cotton, including butter muslin—chosen for its airy quality and a specific wash that induces a slight shrinkage—alongside delicate linen. The collection also revisited petticoats, notably a reworked "tango" model, dungarees, mechanic’s coveralls, apron dresses, and impeccably tailored crepe pieces. Iconic items such as artists’ T-shirts, Elvis straight-leg trousers, button-front dresses with Peter Pan collars, and the distinctive harpsichord shirt (designed without buttons) were prominently featured. Agnès b.'s enduring favorites—polka dots, gingham fabric, denim, unisex leather jackets, satin cut into cargo trousers, and an eighteenth-century-style linen frock coat, reflecting her cherished historical era—underscored her unwavering, timeless aesthetic.
With pastel décor, the evocative cries of seagulls, and the subtle waft of the brand’s forthcoming in-store fragrance, Zimmermann instantly set a decidedly summery tone. This season, the Australian brand immersed its audience in the bohemian, artistic ambiance of Lavender Bay in the seventies. At that time, this industrial pocket of Sydney Harbour, characterized by disused warehouses nestled between Luna Park and the railway, had become a vibrant hub, attracting an exuberant community of artists.
Australian designer Nicky Zimmermann masterfully translated this carefree effervescence into her collection, while deftly modernizing the theme. A fresh, joyful spirit permeated the show, which celebrated a palette of vibrant colors including emerald green, petrol blue, orange, and pink. Soft-focus floral prints, reminiscent of David Hamilton's iconic photography, added to the nostalgic yet contemporary feel, all contributing to a nonchalant allure. Blouses and maxi dresses ranged from ethereal, billowing ruffles to demure designs in white cotton lace. Trousers were presented either baggy or dramatically flared. Front-zipped jumpsuits, worn unzipped, gave the models—styled with dark sunglasses, sandals, or clogs—a casual "house painter" chic. Chic pleated trousers sat low on the waist, revealing high-cut swimsuits, while long dresses glided sinuously along the body. Accessories saw women alternating between elegant headscarves and sparkling gold jewellery, completing a versatile and spirited wardrobe.
This collection is poised for significant success, much like Zimmermann's previous offerings. The brand continues to be one of the few in the current market to demonstrate consistent growth, thanks to its accessible luxury appeal which resonates strongly with a global audience, extending far beyond its native Australia.
For Ungaro, the treasures of the Louvre served as a profound starting point, with Ingres’s renowned painting "L’Odalisque" being a particular muse. Artistic director Kobi Halperin elucidated his vision: "In this collection, there’s Orientalism, with a mix of cultures, but also a 'cabinet of curiosities' side. I wanted to celebrate femininity and freedom, imagining these women going from the Louvre to the flea market, mixing all sorts of influences." This inspiration created a rich narrative of cultural fusion and personal expression.
The resulting collection was both opulent and delicate, emphasizing lightness through a medley of silky fabrics adorned with floral prints, gauzy gypsy dresses, and more sensual versions crafted from fluid satin. Clouds of ostrich feathers lent an airy, ethereal touch to several ensembles, enhancing the overall delicate aesthetic. Numerous pieces fashioned from lace and guipure—including dresses, jackets, skirts, shorts, and trousers—were designed to allow air to circulate, evoking a fresh, boudoir-inspired spirit. The wardrobe is conceived with versatility at its core, offering interchangeable pieces that transition effortlessly from day to evening. Selections include elegant shirt dresses, weightless summer dresses in chiffon or cotton (available in monochrome or printed versions), chic little tweed jackets perfectly paired with leopard shorts, and the classic suit, presented with an elegant double-breasted jacket in pristine white or a precious brocade, offering a sophisticated array for every occasion.
