Pattern engineers fashion's future with new Turin headquarters and €15 million investment

Pattern, a leading force in the fashion engineering sector, is commemorating its 25th anniversary with the grand opening of a new state-of-the-art headquarters on the outskirts of Turin. Situated in Collegno, the expansive 5,000 square-meter facility, dedicated to both production and office space, was inaugurated by CEO Luca Sburlati, who proudly declared, "We are the engineers of fashion."

This significant milestone represents a €15 million investment, strategically funded through the sale of Pattern’s previous factory, also located in Collegno, with the majority of the property acquired by Burberry. Since late August, the new facility has been buzzing with 130 skilled professionals, adeptly blending traditional craft expertise with cutting-edge technology. The company anticipates further expansion, with plans to welcome 30 new hires. These additions will be dedicated to a specialized section of the former plant, repurposed for ultra high-end production, which Sburlati likened to "the Ferraris of apparel."

Reflecting on Pattern's remarkable journey, Sburlati emphasized the company's evolution from a "micro-SME with a few million in turnover" just a few years ago. Through "courageous choices," Pattern has transformed into a major enterprise, notably achieving this growth without incurring debt. The CEO underscored a core mission: "We have to defend Made in Italy, which is under attack, with our example of Italian artisanal excellence. We are investing in skills. In the coming years, no humanoid robot will be able to sew a garment."

The Turin-based company is setting ambitious financial targets, aiming for €140 million in turnover by 2028 as part of its strategic plan, which also includes venturing into new product categories. Analysts project a strong performance for 2025, forecasting a turnover of €110 million with a positive EBITDA. The company’s name, "Pattern," is the English equivalent of the Italian "cartamodello," reflecting its origins. It was founded by Franco Martorella and Fulvio Botto, both experienced pattern makers from Gruppo Finanziario Tessile (GFT), who built extensive careers working alongside iconic designers such as Valentino, Armani, Versace, Calvin Klein, and Alexander McQueen.

Pattern's ascent, marked by its listing on the Milan stock exchange in 2019, has been described by Sburlati as a "Savoy-style 'campaign of annexation'." Under his leadership since 2012, the company has grown from approximately 40 employees in 2011 to a much larger entity through strategic investments in various companies. This expansion has encompassed diverse sectors, including knitwear in Emilia, leather goods, Roscini’s pattern-making, and luxury knitwear in Umbria, extending to tech hubs in Abruzzo and Puglia. This trajectory highlights a belief that "small is no longer so beautiful."

The new headquarters embodies the very essence of "fashion engineering." Sburlati elaborated on their innovative processes: "Alongside traditional paper patterns, we use 3D CAD and augmented reality. Brands bring us a design that we turn into both a virtual and a physical prototype. The brief also includes fit and the associated fabric. The pattern then goes to the tailoring department, which sews the garment that, after adjustments, will become a sample or a runway look. The average lead time is one week."

Commitment to sustainability is a cornerstone of the new facility. The building is designed to be completely green, harnessing energy through heat exchange with groundwater and a conventional photovoltaic system. Even the construction materials prioritize reuse. Pattern aims to achieve LEED Gold certification, a demanding standard that currently applies to only a few dozen companies nationwide, as noted by the CEO.

Beyond its core operations, Pattern’s influence extends widely, employing 800 individuals across its partner companies, with the total rising to approximately 2,000 when factoring in the broader supply chain. Future plans include the development of a new 1,000-square-meter garment factory in Puglia, which is expected to create around 100 new jobs.

The inauguration of the new factory also saw the presence of Elena Lorenzini, deputy chief of staff to the Minister for Made in Italy, Adolfo Urso. Speaking at the event, she affirmed the ministry's strong support for the fashion sector, stating, "It is companies like Pattern that represent the values of Made in Italy around the world. The ministry supports the fashion sector by sending a clear political signal of attention and support." Urso further extended an invitation to Pattern's founders to convene in Rome, emphasizing a collaborative effort "to work together on new regulations for the future of the sector."