Penelope Archive Fuels Paris Fashion Auction With Rare Avant-Garde Masterpieces
The British auction house Kerry Taylor, in collaboration with Maurice Auctions in Paris, is set to host its eighth highly anticipated sale on November 6. This event promises a remarkable selection of over 400 avant-garde fashion pieces and accessories, meticulously divided into two distinct sessions scheduled for 10:30 am and 3:00 pm. The afternoon session will be a particular highlight, devoted entirely to the renowned 'Penelope Archive' collection curated by Roberta Valentini, a pivotal figure in the evolution of Italian fashion.
Roberta Valentini, internationally celebrated as a pioneer and trendsetter through her avant-garde boutiques across Italy, has assembled an extraordinary collection of 237 rare pieces, all maintained in excellent condition. Valentini, known for introducing names like Margiela and Rei Kawakubo to Italy in the 1970s, deemed these items too significant to sell. Instead, she chose to preserve them, viewing them as a profound testament to fashion history and a reflection of her unique personal vision.
Valentini, whose birth name is Cesarina, deliberately changed it as an assertion of her identity. Her journey in the fashion world began in 1969, working within her family's footwear business. Following her father's passing, she and her sister ventured to open a small boutique in Contrada Cavalletto in Brescia, offering cutting-edge fashion to an increasingly discerning clientele. Today, she successfully operates three distinct boutiques in Brescia: 'Penelope', 'Boysloft', and 'Penelope Sposa'. Describing herself as a "disruptor," Roberta Valentini has cultivated a true style icon status, instantly recognisable by her flame-red hair, and has been a coveted guest at prestigious events, including dinners with the British Royal Family.
Among the top lots from the 'Penelope Archive' featured in the Paris auction are several standout pieces. From Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal, a papier-mâché gilet with a white label, from spring–summer 1990, crafted from layers of advertising posters, carries an estimated value of €15,000–€25,000. Also from Margiela, a top made from a plastic bag, a spring–summer 1994 reissue, is estimated at €4,000–€6,000. Yohji Yamamoto offerings include a striking grey-and-silver striped silk taffeta suit from spring–summer 1999 (€3,000–€5,000), and a rare hat fashioned from wood and black felted wool, from autumn–winter 1991–1992 (€1,000–€1,500). The auction will also feature a distinctive suit by Vivienne Westwood, made of wool, velvet, and faux fur, from autumn–winter 1996–1997, estimated at €700–€1,000.
In contrast to the dedicated Valentini collection, the first session of the sale will present approximately 200 lots sourced from various collections. This includes a substantial collection of pieces from Maison Martin Margiela, alongside a curated selection of designs by John Galliano for both Christian Dior and his eponymous brand. The session will also feature a broad array of ready-to-wear garments and luxurious leather goods from Chanel and other prominent fashion houses, offering a diverse appeal to collectors.
This collaborative auction is part of a strategic partnership formed in the first half of 2022 between the Paris-based Maurice Auctions and the London-based Kerry Taylor Auctions. Together, they orchestrate two annual sales dedicated to fashion and haute couture, each featuring a highly curated selection that underscores their combined expertise and commitment to showcasing exceptional pieces of fashion history.
