Portuguese Powerhouses Davii and Pé de Chumbo Ignite Milan Fashion Week with Empowering Collections

On Saturday, September 27th, a significant event unfolded in the fashion world as the Luso-Brazilian label Davii and Pé de Chumbo, the brand of Portuguese designer Alexandra Oliveira, unveiled their spring-summer 2026 collections. The chosen venue, the Major Virtual Tunnel, a decommissioned metro station now establishing itself as an avant-garde space, made its debut as a host for presentations linked to Milan Fashion Week, marking a new chapter for this unique location.

Davii and Pé de Chumbo showcased their collections at the invitation of Portugal Fashion, integrating into the official calendar of presentations in Milan, the vibrant Italian capital of fashion and design. This event represented "the second stop on Portugal Fashion's international calendar, following London and preceding the debut of its own showroom in Paris," as explained by the Porto runway organization in a statement. This strategic move underscores the consistent and ambitious internationalization strategy of the Portugal Fashion project.

The presentations offered a compelling contrast, with Portugal Fashion highlighting "two complementary visions that attested to the richness of the national ecosystem." Davii's contribution was characterized by "architectural and conceptual precision," while Pé de Chumbo resonated with its distinctive "artisanal identity," together painting a comprehensive picture of Portuguese design excellence.

As integral components of the official Milan calendar, these two labels, emblematic of "Made in Portugal" excellence, orchestrated distinct "catwalk performance" moments. Davii presented its collection at 3:15 pm and 4:30 pm, while Pé de Chumbo followed at 4:00 pm and 5:15 pm. This carefully orchestrated schedule fostered a dynamic environment where Portuguese fashion asserted itself through an immersive register, facilitating direct dialogue with attending journalists, buyers, and industry professionals.

Davii's collection, titled "Reimagined Forms," delved into an exploration of contemporary avant-garde with deep historical roots. The designs predominantly featured black and white in veiled monochrome looks, crafted from light, diaphanous fabrics. These pieces powerfully evoked the bittersweet aura of Vestal Virgins from Classical Antiquity, seamlessly intertwined with the strength of medieval warriors and contemporary Amazons. The collection served as a bold assertion that women's power extends far beyond the traditional femininity and sensuality often imposed by male-dominated societies.

The Brazilian designer, based in Portugal and now extending his influence to Italy and China, infused his work with the beauty and strong character of thoughtful, ancestral women—figures with clear ideas who acted discreetly, in silence, and almost anonymously. Echoing masterpieces like Leonardo da Vinci's "Lady with an Ermine" and "La Belle Ferronière," which mark the dawn of the Renaissance in Italy, the collection merges a forward-thinking aesthetic with the organic, fluid forms of nature. Davii's signature sculptural and ethereal pieces, defining the brand's contemporary conceptual experimentation, skillfully combine neoprene, silk organza, and leather.

Pé de Chumbo, making its debut on the official Milan calendar, presented its "Femme" collection. This collection also paid tribute to the "feminine duality that has balanced power and fragility, courage and sensuality," as detailed in the press release. It explored the multifaceted nature of womanhood through its intricate designs and material choices.

The "Femme" collection notably favored "intricate lace worked in robust yarns, references to corsets and daring cuts" in pieces designed to "evoke memory and tradition." Simultaneously, the collection unfolded into bold silhouettes suggested by singular, novel materials. It thoughtfully integrated the dictates of fashion, particularly those from the 1980s and 1990s, alongside the aesthetics, legacy, and savoir-faire of northern Portugal. The palette featured a broader range of neutral tones punctuated by vibrant, metallic colors. Remaining "true to its identity," the brand underscored its commitment through the artisanal manipulation of raw materials and meticulous control over the entire production process within its own factory, a distinctive element on the international scene.

Mónica Neto, the director of Portugal Fashion, concluded by emphasizing the strategic importance of this presence: "Milan has been a strategic platform for Portugal fashion to assert itself. This edition reinforced that role, with Davii and Pé de Chumbo underlining the consistency of our presence on the official calendar and demonstrating the creative and productive vitality that makes Made in Portugal a trusted reference in the global market."