Prada turns cultural appropriation critique into Indian artisan partnership for new collection.

Prada has announced a new collaboration with Indian artisans to produce a limited-edition collection of sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear. The collection, which will sell for approximately 800 euros ($930) per pair, is a strategic move by the Italian luxury brand to convert a recent cultural appropriation controversy into a positive partnership. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s senior executive and chief marketing officer, told Reuters that this initiative aims to blend traditional Indian craftsmanship with Italian manufacturing expertise.

The company plans to manufacture 2,000 pairs of the sandals in the Indian regions of Maharashtra and Karnataka. This production will take place under an agreement with two state-backed organizations, Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM) and Dr Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation (LIDKAR), which are dedicated to promoting India's leather heritage. Bertelli stated that the collaboration will combine the "original manufacturer's standard capabilities with our manufacturing techniques" to produce a collection slated for release in February 2026 across 40 Prada stores worldwide and online.

The collaboration comes six months after Prada faced significant criticism for displaying sandals at a Milan fashion show that strongly resembled the 12th-century Indian footwear known as Kolhapuri chappals. Following widespread outrage from Indian artisans and politicians, Prada admitted the design drew from ancient Indian styles and began discussions with artisan groups. According to Bertelli, the new project aims to be a "multiplier of awareness for these chappals," preserving the heritage of a craft threatened by inexpensive imitations and declining demand.

As part of the initiative, Prada will establish a three-year partnership, with details still being finalized, to train local artisans. The program includes training initiatives within India and opportunities for artisans to spend short periods at Prada's Academy in Italy. Artisans from Maharashtra and Karnataka, where the chappals originated, hope the collaboration will boost incomes, attract younger generations to the trade, and preserve their craft. Prerna Deshbhratar, managing director of LIDCOM, predicted a "domino effect" from Prada's endorsement, increasing demand for the product. Bertelli noted that the project and training program would require an investment of "several million euros," ensuring fair remuneration for artisans.

While Prada recently opened its first beauty store in Delhi, the company has no plans to open new retail clothing shops next year or establish factories in India. However, Bertelli indicated that new stores are "something that we are strongly taking into consideration" for the next three to five years. Bertelli emphasized that Prada prefers to enter the Indian market independently rather than through large conglomerate partnerships, even if this takes longer, describing India as "the real potential new market."

Prada's interest aligns with the rapid growth of India’s luxury goods market, which Deloitte valued at approximately $7 billion in 2024 and projected to reach around $30 billion by 2030. This growth is driven by accelerated economic expansion, with a 7% increase expected this year, and rising disposable incomes among the middle and upper classes. Despite its potential, the Indian luxury market remains significantly smaller than China's, which generated approximately 350 billion yuan ($49.56 billion) in value in 2024, according to Bain.