Printemps Director Reveals Fashion Week's Defining Moments and Future Trends
The recent season of fashion shows and presentations, grandly heralded as the "fashion week of the century," marked a pivotal moment for the luxury sector, brimming with significant debuts across many esteemed houses. To gain a deeper understanding of these impactful events, FashionNetwork.com sought the expert perspective of Maud Pupato, purchasing director for women's luxury fashion, accessories, and footwear at the iconic Parisian department store Printemps. She graciously shared her comprehensive insights on this truly unique season.
When asked about the most successful artistic director debuts or innovative creative directions, Pupato found it challenging to single out just one, given the season's richness. However, she pinpointed two particularly impactful shifts: Jonathan Anderson's vision for Dior and Mathieu Blazy's creative direction at Chanel. Both, she believes, transcend mere fresh interpretations of house codes, instead signaling distinct new eras. At Dior, Anderson ushers in a modern, poetic silhouette, while Blazy's Chanel woman is envisioned as elegant and passionate. Other notable debuts included Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, the duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe, and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga, each contributing significantly to the season's narrative.
Identifying pieces with immediate commercial potential, Pupato highlighted several standout products. Chanel's iconic two-tone shoes, Dior's newly introduced quilted bag, and Chanel's diverse range of necklaces—encompassing both classic long styles and contemporary chokers—were key. Dior's fitted coats also caught her discerning eye. Beyond these, Margiela's distinct shirts and jackets, Balenciaga's fresh "Paris 7" bag and leather jackets, and Bottega Veneta's luxurious leather coats and statement collars were all earmarked as strong contenders for consumer appeal.
Regarding the major trends that emerged from fashion month and will shape Printemps' buying strategy, Pupato emphasized a prevailing sense of sophistication. Cuts are decidedly feminine and fitted, embodying a clear intention to celebrate beauty and empower the body with elegance. Movement is paramount, especially visible in skirts and dresses, complemented by a discernible return to higher heels. A consistent theme across brands like Alaïa, Chanel, Prada, Bottega Veneta, Celine, and Balenciaga is the silhouette of a free, modern woman. Furthermore, feminine codes are being re-emphasized and evolved; the use of lingerie-inspired elements, lace, and transparency is rendered more subtle, intimate, yet assertively present in collections by Victoria Beckham, Dries Van Noten, and Margiela.
The interplay of textures and relief emerged as a crucial element, lending dimension to collections through material mixtures, new techniques, deconstruction-reconstruction, accumulation, and layering. Even in monochrome white or black, garments exude vitality, appearing almost organic, particularly evident in the work of Margiela, Pauline Dujancourt, Hodakova, Rescha, and Miu Miu. Workwear also encapsulates this trend, with Miu Miu leading the charge in its interpretation.
When asked about the three shows that left the most profound impression, Pupato first cited Calvin Klein in New York. Beyond being an NYFW highlight, Veronica Leoni’s presentation solidified her distinctive silhouette and design codes, featuring a sublime collection with impeccable cuts. In Paris, Rick Owens' show deeply moved her, with its post-apocalyptic yet romantically sovereign atmosphere, crafted through an evocative set, music, and a gradient of beige. Finally, Saint Laurent presented a collection that Pupato found to be one of the most accomplished in terms of vision, utilizing technical materials on unexpected cuts like nylon ruffled dresses, in an autumnal yet vibrant color palette. The dramatic, almost sacred jewelry further amplified this futurism while retaining the house's inherent glamour.
Beyond the garments, Pupato identified Gauchère's performance as the most impactful catwalk universe or activation with strong in-store translation potential. This short ballet, created in collaboration with Benjamin Millepied, imbued the clothing with life and fresh energy, presenting a truly living poetry. The fusion of culture, movement, and material represented a unique and memorable gesture during Fashion Week.
In the realm of independent brands and young designers, Pupato noted an inspiring season thanks to propositions that ventured beyond the usual. Pauline Dujancourt was highlighted as one of the most promising designers, with unique creations interweaving knitwear and silk, forming a recognizable signature of striking beauty. Bonnetje, discovered in Copenhagen, also captured her attention for its technical prowess in deconstructing and reconstructing existing tailoring, offering a powerful visual expression alongside a genuine commitment to sustainability. Rescha continues its strong trajectory, with an expanding collection and an evolving vision evident in its materials and cuts, subtly nodding to its origins and inviting discovery.
Regarding key product categories set to drive sales this season, jackets are a significant focus. This includes tailored suits with structured, fitted, and feminine cuts from brands like Alaïa and Celine; lighter, summer-adapted versions from Victoria Beckham; and reconstructed, textured designs from Margiela or Bonnetje. Leather jackets also appear in more creative shapes and colors, underscoring leather as one of the season’s most important trends. Footwear is another strong segment, with powerful, creative pieces alongside casual flats and ballet sneakers. Furthermore, Pupato observed a return to dresses—long set aside for trouser suits or Bermuda shorts—now appearing longer, more sensual, almost ethereal yet simultaneously empowering.
The season's materials, textures, and color palettes are designed to energize the offering and stimulate customer desire. This summer signals a return to optimism, with fewer dark collections and less black. The overall color palette remains fairly neutral, dominated by browns, beiges, black, and white, but is enlivened by almost autumnal hues such as rust, khaki, and mustard yellow, perfectly showcased by Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent. Brighter, bolder touches also emerge, including vibrant red at Chanel, sunny yellow at Loewe, lush green at Dior, and playful pink at Balenciaga. Textures are incredibly varied and crucial, emphasizing both softness and vulnerability, or conversely, a rawer effect. In both cases, the goal is to infuse garments with dimension and power, signaling quality and distinctiveness for pieces that ingeniously twist essentials through their medium.
Finally, in accessories, a strong trend towards finely worked and emphasized jewelry is evident, from 'statement' earrings at Valentino, Balenciaga, and Saint Laurent, to imposing necklaces at Givenchy and Chanel. Pupato sees shoes and jewelry as the season's definitive accessories, completing silhouettes and bought in multiples, even becoming central rather than mere additions. They collectively affirm a new femininity that is both delicate and strong: a free, ornamented woman who embraces self-expression. Additionally, new and desirable bag shapes are emerging from Dior, Chanel, and Balenciaga. Scarves and bandanas are also significant, whether layered or integrated into garments, as seen at Miu Miu, or through the minimalism of a black-and-white logo square like Loulou de Saison’s, adaptable for various stylings, even as a unique floral wrap, as Chloé Harrouche demonstrated with florist Aïdan Marcotte.
