Stéphane Rolland Unveils Exquisite Fragrance Collection with Henry Jacques Alongside New Parisian Couture House
Stéphane Rolland, a couturier recognized for his significant momentum in the fashion world, has recently unveiled his inaugural fragrance collection, developed in exclusive partnership with the esteemed haute niche perfumer, Henry Jacques. This discreet launch coincides with the final preparations for Rolland's magnificent new Parisian headquarters, a 900-square-meter couture house situated within the historic address of 39 rue Franklin Delano Roosevelt. Slated for an official opening on December 1, Rolland describes it as "everything I need right in the heart of Paris," a space formerly occupied by Gastinne-Renette, the legendary armorer and official supplier to Emperor Napoleon III, whose pistols famously featured in Maupassant’s 'Bel Ami'.
While the new maison represents a significant milestone, Rolland's immediate excitement centers on his debut scents. The genesis of this collaboration dates back 17 years, when Rolland first encountered Henry Jacques' CEO, Anne-Lise Cremona, in his former Avenue George V salon. Rolland recalls a profound connection, stating, "From the start I had a crush and realised that if I ever created a scent, I wanted Anne-Lise and her team to make it." He deeply admires their "exquisite, refined creations" and finds Henry Jacques' philosophy of exclusivity and use of the rarest raw materials perfectly aligns with his own.
In an era where niche perfumes have become a lucrative market, with brands like Francis Kurkdjian, Frédéric Malle, and Memo achieving substantial revenue and valuations, Henry Jacques stands apart for its truly exotic elixirs. Stéphane Rolland's fragrance debut encompasses two distinct variations and three formats: Les Essences, a hyper-exclusive perfume available in 15ml and 30ml flacons priced at 1,975 euros and 3,170 euros respectively, and Les Brumes (mists), which contains organic alcohol and is offered in a 75ml format for 1,975 euros. Rolland playfully remarks, "Our scent is more expensive than gold!"
When asked about the creative brief for the nose, Rolland simply stated, "Well, it was my life!" Anne-Lise Cremona elaborates, describing the process as stripping him "naked," recognizing Rolland as a "great architect, a creator of sublime gowns and structural style," who shares similar creative codes with Henry Jacques. Rolland described the experience as deeply emotional, prompting him to revisit his childhood, including memories of his father and grandfather's collection of fine alcohols. He connected instantly with Antonin Khalife, Anne-Lise's son and the perfumer, feeling "very humble and small in face of his maturity." Khalife's understanding and guidance were instrumental, even when challenging Rolland's preferences, such as introducing a magical blend of orange marmalade with Bourbon despite Rolland's dislike for citrus. Rolland's brief was complex: an oriental scent, yet not typically so; embodying Parisian chic elegance but with a desire to travel; and paradoxically, no oud, but incense. The final result is a harmonious blend of occidental and oriental notes.
A defining characteristic of the new Stéphane Rolland & Henry Jacques scents is the meticulous use of exceptionally rare and precious raw materials. Cremona highlights ingredients like Rose de May and Centifolia, which can command prices around €40,000 per kilo, and Iris, costing up to €160,000 per kilo, noting Rolland's preference for generous quantities. Henry Jacques distinguishes itself by cultivating its own organic Rose de May, utilizing traditional methods like horse-ploughed furrows and natural river irrigation. Cremona emphasizes that their process is a "métier d’art," ensuring authenticity that mass-market perfumes, reliant on artificial synthetics, cannot replicate. She asserts that while Rose de May might be found elsewhere, it will not be "like from Henry Jacques!"
Henry Jacques' unwavering commitment to artisanal quality led them to resist the mass-market shift of the 1990s, focusing solely on bespoke scents for connoisseurs for three decades. The company prides itself on its unique "maison de composition," an exceptional in-house laboratory in La Motte en Provence, an 11th-century village north of St Tropez. Here, they cultivate their own jasmine and Centifolia roses, having even planted 10,000 new rose bushes last year, setting them apart from virtually all other perfumers who rely on major international suppliers like Firmenich or Givaudan.
Currently, the new Stéphane Rolland & Henry Jacques scents are retailed across all 10 Henry Jacques boutiques worldwide, including prominent locations such as London (Harrods), Paris, Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Qatar, Singapore, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Tokyo, and Beverly Hills. Future expansion plans include Milan next year, followed by Shanghai and New York in 2027. Soon, Rolland’s scent will also be available in his new couture maison and through Henry Jacques online. Cremona describes their boutique concept as a "home" where the passion for perfumes is shared, catering to truly passionate clients and connoisseurs rather than following typical marketing models.
The Henry Jacques perfume house, founded in Provence in 1975 by Anne-Lise’s father, Henry, (a concept born from his extensive travels), was built on a simple yet audacious principle: to be the best in the market, irrespective of price. This philosophy is evident in Stéphane Rolland's initial drop of just 300 flacons, which quickly sold out. Cremona observes a growing consumer fatigue with marketing-driven products, leading to a boom in haute parfumerie from brands like Xerjoff, Frédéric Malle, and Memo, with Henry Jacques occupying an even more rarefied position due to its unparalleled use of exceptional raw materials. The family business has grown into a formidable enterprise, exceeding €50 million in annual revenues, with sales in Europe and the Middle East accelerating by 68% this year. Henry Jacques' best sellers, like Blue Vanille (€955) and Roi sans Equipage (€865), underscore their premium positioning, with top-tier scents in gemstone-covered crystal bottles reaching over €3,000.
Anne-Lise Cremona, an industrious leader, balances her time between Provence, Paris, and her vacation home in Pantelleria, near Giorgio Armani's estate. In Paris, she can often be found at Henry Jacques' haute gamme boutique at 2 Avenue Montaigne, which features its own garden and offers clients views of the Eiffel Tower while they lunch. This boutique is conveniently located just around the corner from Rolland's new airy couture maison, which houses bridal and couture showrooms, a design studio, and an atelier employing 40 skilled "petits mains." Rolland, who retains 100% ownership of his business – a rare feat in an industry often dominated by luxury conglomerates like LVMH or Kering – continues to stage some of Paris couture's most memorable shows, from Maria Callas-inspired spectacles at the Palais Garnier to Josephine-themed productions at the Salle Pleyel. As one of the last great independent couturiers, Stéphane Rolland appears poised for a renewed sense of élan and an exciting new chapter.


