Who's Next Paris Shows Resilience and Innovation Amidst Global Uncertainty

A mood of resilient pragmatism, rather than outright defeatism, characterized the recent September edition of the Who's Next trade show at the Porte de Versailles exhibition centre in Paris. Despite persistent economic uncertainty and a challenging global landscape marked by new US tariff policies, the ongoing conflict in Ukraine, and the Israel-Palestine situation, the French fashion industry seemed to embrace these variables. Compounding the apprehension was a slight downturn in French apparel consumption in the first half of the year, particularly a weak July, alongside an unpredictable domestic political climate.

Despite these headwinds, business at the show was encouraging, particularly during the first two days. Hall 1 of the exhibition centre buzzed with activity, featuring a vibrant array of distinctive and engaging stands and installations. These included interactive trend panels, playful hook-the-duck areas, and well-appointed break zones. Exhibitor diversity was a hallmark, encompassing a wide range of ready-to-wear and accessory brands, alongside beauty, beach, and swimwear labels in the Curve section. Jewellery distribution and sourcing specialists were present at Bijorhca, while various suppliers, notably for lingerie, gathered at Interfilière. The Lab section spotlighted innovative service providers, and for the first time, 43 lifestyle brands were introduced.

A significant highlight was the debut of the new Lifestyle section, centrally located and featuring a minimalist design, akin to the Matter & Shape object design show. This section presented a diversified range across ten product categories, from tableware and designer furniture to perfumed candles and stationery. Matthieu Pinet, in charge of the Lifestyle section, expressed positive feedback, noting exhibitors' success in connecting with clients and forging potential collaborations across sectors. This new area was strategically designed to act as a bridge, linking the show’s sourcing sections with the prominent ready-to-wear brands, the latter of which also expressed satisfaction with their prime placement at the exhibition entrance.

The optimistic sentiment was echoed by numerous exhibitors. Libertad Arias of Spanish brand Skätie, with around 50 French retail clients, reported significantly higher attendance than in January, affirming Who's Next as one of Europe's leading trade shows for women's ready-to-wear. Delphine Lopez, creative director of La Rochelle-based accessories brand Maradji, noted a "good atmosphere since opening day," attributing a strong start to a successful summer with eager customers. Maradji, distributed in over 200 stores, participates in Who's Next biannually and also exhibits at Maison & Objet.

Sustainable ready-to-wear label Perpète, making its Who's Next debut with womenswear after transitioning from childrenswear, also shared positive feedback. Co-founder Nathalie Parmentier highlighted the shift to the adult market for better margins, while still maintaining smaller children's collections to optimize material costs, underscoring the brand's adaptability to market demands. Portuguese footwear brand Sanjo, revitalized in 2019 after a hiatus, also felt a "positive energy" at the show, a contrast to some "awkward" past sessions. First-time exhibitor Cocorico, a French apparel brand expecting to sell over one million units this year, expressed enthusiasm, having received visits from Parisian concept stores and various multibrand retailers. The brand aims for 100 physical stores by the end of 2026.

In the Impact section, dedicated to sustainable brands, Déluge, participating for the third time, noted a slightly quieter Saturday but remained focused on expanding its distribution through concept stores and multibrand retailers specializing in sustainable fashion. The crowdfunding specialist Ulule's stand was bustling, featuring start-ups like inclusive apparel brand Lyk, cashmere specialist Raev, sneakers brand Agapara, and cosmetics brand Harmo. The Who's Next Lab also proved popular, showcasing cutting-edge innovations such as 3D printing solutions for accessories by INCXNNUE and ready-to-wear by Blanca Martin Hernandez, alongside AI tools for fashion design from CDamslab and Miraggia.

The show's timing, at the end of the season when many buyers had depleted their budgets, proved to be an advantage for some. Guillerme, head of wholesale expansion at Catalan brand Two Thirds, was "pleasantly surprised" by the attendance, noting that buyers often use residual budgets to explore new names. While King Louie, the Dutch brand, opted to await a final assessment, their executives confirmed that some clients had performed well in the first half of the year, leading them to attend Who's Next. Jean-Michel Sanchez, founder of French brand Deeluxe and a Who's Next veteran, observed visits from multibrand chains and independent stores, both domestic and international. He affirmed the show's productivity, especially for womenswear, positioning it alongside CIFF in Copenhagen and Modefabriek in Amsterdam, despite their smaller scale. Two-thirds of Deeluxe’s stand was dedicated to womenswear for this session.

The show's layout successfully drew visitors to the peripheral areas of Hall 1, where popular sections like jewellery, conference areas, product innovation, and Interfilière were strategically placed. However, Jean-Hugues Perrin from Tissages Perrin, an Interfilière exhibitor, raised a point of concern regarding the absence of a dedicated finished lingerie product section, despite Interfilière focusing on the supply chain. He acknowledged the success of the recent Interfilière Preview in Paris but questioned the wisdom of this omission at Who's Next. Perrin also noted that while increased customs duties have had little direct impact so far, the industry’s reaction in the USA remains to be seen.